Shiomi Onsen Ryokan Ogawaya

Ogawaya family run this ryokan, and they were very friendly and attentive. Their English isn’t strong, but that wasn’t a problem for me, since I can’t speak Japanese either. Meals are available for an extra charge, but breakfast and dinner need to be booked ahead. I came across this place while looking for a ryokan for my Tohoku vacation. It’s in a small onsen village in Yamagata prefecture, far from any big city, so it suits anyone wanting a quiet place to unwind and get away from tourists. Getting there isn’t very convenient: JR Rikuu East line service is suspended, though JR East runs a bus instead. Highly recommended for a quiet stay.

The private bath was available for us to use. It’s compact, but our family of three could relax comfortably, and the mild, smooth water really helped with our fatigue. The futons were fluffy, and the heating system that uses heat from the hot springs kept the room comfortable. The inn has a lovely retro feel and excellent service. We arrived late at night on a no-meals plan, but the proprietress greeted us warmly. The staff also looked after our car keys and took care of parking. They were incredibly attentive.

The hot springs were lovely, and the food was delicious. They even let us have seconds of miso soup, and in the morning they brewed coffee just as we finished breakfast. The landlady and maids were friendly and fun. The building dates to 1960 and has a wonderful sense of history, with a striking open staircase. The toilets and sinks are shared, but that wasn’t inconvenient. The large public bath is for men until 8 PM, then switches to women, so men get a slightly shorter window. Private baths can be used whenever they’re available. I wish it weren’t so far away, since I can’t visit often.

Meals were plentiful and served in a private room by a friendly waitress. Everything from the plum wine aperitif to the beef hot pot and dessert was delicious. My only real downside was a loud older male guest who seemed to be a regular. I could still hear him at night with the door closed. I didn’t notice noise from the other rooms on my floor, so maybe the open staircase carries sound. The inn’s open staircase makes a strong impression. It’s a traditional Japanese place and a bit old-fashioned, but very clean and comfortable. The men’s and women’s baths alternate, with a mix of large and small ones, and there’s a family bath you can reserve privately when available. The water is clear, colorless, just the right temperature, and silky smooth. Bathing morning and evening left my skin feeling very smooth, and seemed to ease the itch from insect bites. The bathroom and toilet were shared, but right outside the room, so it was convenient.