Akakura Onsen Takeda

The mini-suite had a separate sitting room across the corridor from the bedroom. We used its bathroom, tub, and shower area to dry our ski clothes and boots in the heated cupboard. There are lockers for ski equipment, and renting from Kumado ski hire shop across the road was very convenient. It's an old-time hotel with faded 80s glory. The decor brought the soundtrack Rondo Veneziano to mind. It must have been extremely grand when it was new, and there's an incredible ornate golden shrine in the Chambre d'Or.

The hot spring is beautiful, and the staff are exceptionally kind and helpful. This is a traditional, older Japanese hotel in a mountain hot spring town, so it may not be what some non-Japanese guests expect. I personally love this sort of place, with its history and the valuable art pieces collected by the owner. Breakfast is famous, and I'd also recommend the paid dinner course, which is very good value. There are newer hotels in town opened by younger people and foreigners, but if you want to experience true Japanese hospitality, I highly recommend staying here.

The interior is old, though it still seems maintained, and the place is big, with rooms on the second through fifth floors. Staff and workers were friendly. There's an onsen with natural spring water, and in winter they provide lockers for ski or snowboard gear. Breakfast and dinner cost extra, though our accommodation booking included both. Breakfast was buffet style, while at dinner each room had its own table. The food was nice.

The place has a distinctive charm, with spacious bedrooms and several generous onsens. The kaiseki dinners are an experience worth having, with a level of service you don't get to see much these days. It's a little dated, but worth visiting. We love it.