Fujiwara Ryokan

We stayed in a western-style room, and it felt like being at home. There was lots of space, which is unusual in Japan, so I’d recommend it for families. This was the best hotel of our Japan trip, and I was visiting from Canada with my family. The location worked well too. It’s a short walk from the station and about three minutes from the street car, which is a great way to see Nagasaki. The staff were warm and helpful, with good English. One person took time to tell me about a festival and where to go. Just be aware that nobody is there before 3 or after 6, so plan around that. If you’re delayed, I think you can call and someone may let you in after hours.

We had a spacious tatami room with separate seating and dining areas. The futons were a little hard on my Western back at first, but I got used to them, and the room was spotless. There are tea, laundry, and a big wash basin in the handy common areas. I didn’t see the western-style rooms, but there’s also a cosy cafe and bar downstairs, plus secure on-site parking at a very reasonable price, which is unusual in central Nagasaki. The inn has a charming, friendly feel and is well placed, two minutes from the tram and a ten-minute walk from JR Station. The staff were lovely. We only know a little Japanese, but managed to communicate fine with a translation app.

The room itself was clean and comfortable: a Japanese-style space with plenty of amenities, fluffy clean futon and blankets, and air conditioning that worked perfectly. The shared toilet had a washlet, the shared bath had a hot shower, and the common areas had a microwave, hot and cold water dispenser, tea thongs, and extra cups. With only one other guest there, I didn’t feel crowded. If the price is about the same, I’d stay again, though I wouldn’t suggest it to anyone who wants staff to help with local shops or attractions. Getting around is manageable if you know the area. It’s around a 20-minute walk from the JR Nagasaki Station ticket gate, ten minutes from the Prefectural Bus Terminal, and two or three minutes from Sakuramachi Station on the Nagasaki Electric Tramway. There’s a slight uphill walk from either station. A nearby construction site has left a vacant lot, so the inn is visible from Sakuramachi Station, with a Lawson convenience store in front of the station. It’s a residential area, but the narrow one-way street outside seems to serve as a shortcut and gets a fair amount of traffic. A taxi from Nagasaki Station has to detour to reach the road in front, and I imagine drivers may find the close approach irritating. The place seems to run entirely without face-to-face contact. The self-check-in signs and directions were clear, though the counter was dimly lit by incandescent bulbs, making small print on credit cards hard to read for older guests or anyone with poor eyesight. A small daylight lamp would help. The booking site said cash wasn’t accepted and there was no check-in. I apparently got a call just before my arrival time but missed it while out on the street. I called back to say I’d be late, but reached voicemail. When I checked out in the morning, I met a staff member who seemed to be doing light front desk work; he was unfriendly, as if annoyed that I was there. The reviews often mention anxiety and dissatisfaction about reception and customer service, which brings down the ratings. It’s a shame, since the location and amenities could make the place better if those problems were addressed. There was contact information in the room’s information file. I didn’t need to call, but after reading others’ reviews, I’d worry about getting through if something went wrong. This place may suit people used to guesthouses, Air BnB, or private lodging. I booked through a major Japanese accommodation booking site, OTA, and was surprised to see it listed there.

For the price, which is similar to youth hostels and capsule hotels, this was an acceptable one-night stay for me as a solo traveler. I liked the homemade coffee, the basic amenities, and the friendly staff. It won’t suit everyone, though. The bathroom, toilet, and sink are shared, which gives the place a training camp feel. I didn’t run into other guests, so it didn’t bother me. In November I had trouble keeping the room comfortable. There was a yukata but no cover, so it was cold unless I ran the air conditioner. At night the unit made a random single cracking or banging noise that woke me up. The comforter sheet also seemed a little short, leaving either my shoulders or feet cold.