Hatcho no Yu Hot Spring Ryokan

We came back for a second visit, seven years after our first. The buildings and facilities have improved since then, which is unusual for onsens, where things often fall into decay. They clearly work hard on upkeep. The service was a very different story. Seven years ago, the staff were pleasant and thoughtful, the sort of service you’d expect at a luxury Japanese hotel. Now, most of the staff have been replaced by South Asian foreigners who speak neither Japanese nor English very well, and came across as lacking warmth. We didn’t feel welcome. We had the most expensive suite, farthest away and up many flights of stairs, but no one offered to help with our luggage. At checkout, nobody asked how our stay was; they just read from a script like robots. It’s sad to see such a great place feel spoiled by uncaring service. One Indian gentleman was the exception. He seemed to run everything by himself, directing the dining room staff, driving the shuttles, scrubbing the pool, and melting snow off the roof outside our window. He apologized for the noise and gave us free drink tickets. He worked incredibly hard, but needs better support.

The staff were very friendly, and the outdoor baths for both mixed bathing and women only were peaceful and beautiful, set in nature facing a waterfall. They were always empty when we went. Paradise on earth, and absolutely worth the trip if you can stay two nights. Plan your transport in advance, including the hotel shuttle and train. Book the meal plan ahead too, because it’s an experience and absolutely oishi, delicious. If you wait until you arrive, you may not be able to get it. I don’t understand why this place doesn’t have a five star average. Maybe some people didn’t plan ahead. Highly recommend it as a place to relax.

We were treating ourselves to the most expensive part of our trip, a $400-$500 a night onsen ryokan, hoping to unwind with my partner after a long year. The remote mountain setting looked magical, but it took four hours to reach while hauling our luggage. From the start, we felt singled out from non-Western guests. We waited, and weren’t offered the “complementary” lunch that other guests received. We were told we wouldn’t get breakfast either. When we asked why, or whether we could pay extra on top of our $400 reservation, nobody answered. It wasn’t a good start. The interactions after that kept leaving us feeling unwelcome, with subtle unpleasantness and pushback even when we tried to be polite and accommodating. We ended up giving up one night and leaving early, relieved to go. The onsen and the setting are beautiful, but the building is poorly insulated, so be prepared for cold. The shuttle schedule makes it impossible to get to historical places, so you’re stuck at this isolated spot. For up to $500 a night, I’d go somewhere you’ll be treated well, or at least met with indifference. The beautiful baths couldn’t make up for the constant aggression we felt from the staff. There’s no luggage forwarding service. They didn’t respond to any of our messages or calls, whether by email, Expedia, the contact form, or calls from either an international or local number. Good luck.

It takes a bit of time to get there, but the effort is worth it. They give clear directions, and the staff were helpful whenever we had questions. They’re also tattoo friendly. Hatcho-no-yo has a stunning location, amazing food, wonderfully friendly staff, and onsen views that can’t be beat. It exceeded all my expectations, and I’d recommend staying here to anyone looking for a distinctive onsen experience in nature.