Morinouta

The dinner was a huge, happy surprise. I’m a strict vegan and was a little worried, but they remembered when I asked in the morning, replying straight away, "vegan, right?" I still expected a simple meal, but they put together a custom seven-course dinner that rivaled anything else I’d eaten in Japan, even after more than a month there. The staff were wonderfully attentive, around when needed and giving me space otherwise. The proper Japanese inn touches were great too: leaving shoes at the front desk, wearing the yakata, and choosing between the big onsen or the smaller one with its private outdoor patio. The rooms are really spacious, a nice change after city stays around Japan. Its location worked well for me, outside the town centre but a short bus ride away. Nights are dark and mostly quiet, though early morning cars can be loud, and the building has the pleasant creaks, grumbles, and hums of a well-established place. The western-style room beds were pretty firm, even for someone like me who prefers a firm bed. As an occasional side sleeper, I woke up a bit stiff, but walking or a soak in the onsen helped. I really enjoyed the stay and it’s probably my favourite in Japan.