Ryotei Manyou

The food was top-notch and I enjoyed the hot springs. Since it was my first visit, I booked the "Fukujusou" room, hoping for a garden view. Instead, it was on the first floor behind the front desk. For an inn on a hill, that room felt musty, which was a letdown. I’ll choose a second-floor room next time. The public bath sauna also closes in the evening.

The staff wore kimono, which I hadn’t seen in a long time, and the service was impeccable. Our room was extremely clean. We also enjoyed the big private bath, where the whole family could soak, and the well-stocked post-bath area meant plenty to drink. The meals were good, though I’d have preferred smaller portions and a little more flavor. The "Hagi" room has a bedroom and a fully Japanese look, but with modern facilities and air conditioning from Tenri. There’s no sofa, which is a bit disappointing, and the in-room semi-open-air bath is generously filled with hot spring water. The water was great. The private bath was spacious too. The gardens were beautifully kept, though they must take a lot of work to maintain. Past the entrance it felt like another world, tucked away in a residential neighborhood. I’ve visited hot spring resorts in Yamanaka, Himi, Wakura, Katayamazu, and especially Yamashiro Onsen, but this was my first trip to Tatsunokuchi Onsen. The lobby has carpet and tatami, so there’s no need for slippers. The grounds are large, but with few guests it was easy to get around. I rarely give a five-star hotel rating. This one comes close at four stars, and I’d return if I get the chance. By coincidence, a family with a small child was there, and he cried from morning to night despite our having a private dining room. If they offered some alcohol as part of the package and made it an adults-focused luxury inn, I think more wealthy visitors might come.

The food was a highlight, with Kaga cuisine at both dinner and breakfast. The Noto beef sukiyaki, tuna sashimi from nearby waters, and local white rice were especially good. Our maisonette room had double-sized twin beds, lots of space to relax, and a private hot spring bath with room for about three people. The bath water felt smooth and soft, and left me warm. The public bath has one indoor and one open-air bath. It isn’t especially large, but seems about right for the hotel’s capacity. The sauna setup was less successful. The dry sauna fits around three people, but is only open from 3 to 6 pm, and the cold plunge was out of order. The room’s steam sauna ran at a low temperature, and you can’t open or close its door from inside, so you can’t use it independently.

The rooms had a refined feel, with furnishings that stood apart from typical tourist accommodations. Between that atmosphere, the warm service, and the luxury of having nothing to do, I found myself wanting to return again and again. Next time I might skip the meals and just enjoy a quiet stay. I came back within two weeks. I’ve eaten plenty of kaiseki and thought I knew my way around it, but the cuisine here had remarkable depth, beautiful presentation, and such delicate cuts. My only regret was that the head chef had changed. Maybe they’re trying to appeal to a wider range of tastes as tourism grows, but I hope this long-established inn keeps the calm character of its tradition and continues to protect the heart of Japanese kaiseki.