Ubanoyu

I’d read the reviews and nearly decided against coming, but I’m really glad I did. The baths are lovely, and the woman who runs the place is incredibly friendly and helpful. She doesn’t speak much English, so Google Translate would help if you don’t speak Japanese. It’s an old-school Japanese hotel, with tatami mats and paper walls. I thought that was really cool and made the stay feel authentic.

I spent five nights here and hardly saw another person. Whenever I went to one of the four baths, I had it to myself. The water quality was superb, though showering was a problem because the needed facilities just aren’t there. It’s still possible to manage. I stayed in the self-service wing and liked cooking all my meals. There were some old pots and pans, but they weren’t great, so bring your own utensils. A shared fridge and microwave were available, and since nobody else was around, I had them to myself. I also rented a heater, TV, a lockable room, and a few other extras. The old tatami room had no view, but the cooking area adjoined it and wasn’t shared. The place seems past its best, old and somewhat dilapidated, almost abandoned. The staff were friendly and accommodating. It came to 4800 per night, which wasn’t bad. If you’re visiting Japan from the West, these accommodations may disappoint you a lot. If you’ve spent more time in Japan, you’ll recognize this kind of ryokan, and it can be fun if you’re in the right frame of mind.

The operator was a really nice older Japanese lady. She didn’t speak English, so we used Google Translate. The rooms are basic, with paper sliding doors, a table and futons. The plugs are the standard flat, ungrounded US type, so I didn’t need an adapter despite what I’d read. I was a little unsure after seeing the reviews, but this became one of my favorite stays in Japan. There are four really nice onsens with different mineral compositions, the most options in town, and I especially loved the outdoor one. The buildings and baths show their age, and I spotted a spider web in a hallway ceiling corner when I looked closely, but it felt clean enough to me. The worn look also added to the authentic Japanese feel. If you want fancy amenities, this isn’t the place. For an affordable, down-to-earth and authentic experience, don’t pass it up.

It was so quiet and peaceful that I added another night to my stay. These were some of the best baths I’ve tried in Japan, especially the outdoor one. I’d read complaints about noise, but that wasn’t my experience. I’d highly recommend staying here if you’re coming to Naruko.