Hamayu Kuroshio Sanso

Kuroshio Sou had just reopened in July 2023 after renovation when I visited Shirahama in Wakayama Prefecture for the first time. My stay was one night and two days, and everything felt stylish and wonderful, from the food and room to the hospitality. The staff knew a lot about Wakayama and answered our questions about the local ingredients in the Japanese dishes at dinner. They were friendly and recommended nearby places, so we walked to Shirarahama beach, visited the trendy ASACAFE, which is part of the same group as Kuroshio Sou, and stopped at a cute bean-to-bar chocolate shop. It’s a two-hour drive from Osaka. From Tokyo, you can fly from Haneda Airport to Nanki-Shirahama Airport in an hour and 15 minutes, then take a 10-minute taxi ride to Kuroshio Sou. I highly recommend it for an authentic, relaxing stay in Japan and amazing Japanese hospitality.

The food was amazing, full of local meat and fish, and the citrus scent when I walked in made the place feel soothing in every way. Apart from one issue, it was a truly wonderful stay. The waiter’s service was excellent, but they had a smell like a damp rag that really bothered me. The same person showed me to my room, and the smell lingered there for a while, then they served dinner too. I had to hold my breath while eating, which was a shame because I wanted to enjoy that incredible meal longer. I hesitated to mention something so sensitive, especially after looking forward to the stay based on the reviews, but I was disappointed.

For my birthday, I travel each year, and since it’s usually cold that time of year, I picked warm Nanki Shirahama. I returned to Kuroshio Sou about a year and a half after my first stay, when I loved the food, and it was just as good this time. The chef puts care into using plenty of local ingredients. I especially liked the spiny lobster shinjo and yellowtail sashimi, and this time’s earthenware pot rice with oysters was delicious. Last time I had sea bream rice, an unforgettable taste. There was a good variety of ingredients without piling on too many courses, just the right amount to enjoy, and I was full by the end. I chose the alcohol pairing. The woman serving it knew her stuff and explained the sake in detail. I even learned about grape varieties I’d never heard of. They finished with a special birthday dessert, and the staff’s hospitality made it a wonderful time. The room used natural materials throughout, with no plastic, just wood and paper. The loungewear was linen, and even the socks and drawstring bag were cotton, which felt comfortable and relaxing. On the way home, I followed the staff’s recommendation and stopped at Nanbu Umebayashi Park to see the plum blossoms in full bloom, then bought sweet potato mochi.

We picked this inn as a treat for all our hard work this year. The refined space and excellent service made such an impression that we were still talking about it after we got home. The rooms, lobby, food, and service were all impeccable. After dinner, the staff gave us lots of suggestions for places to see in Wakayama. You could tell they really love the area.