Fujiya

The quiet atmosphere was exactly what we needed after all that walking around the cities. We ended up booking the traditional Japanese suite after a last-minute change of plans, and it was our first ryokan stay. Definitely won't be our last. The suite had a fancy massage chair that made me giggle because it looked a bit out of place, but it turned out to be great for a proper rest. I also appreciated the two private baths, the onsen towel and clothing, and the clear instructions. The food was fantastic, especially the mountain vegetables and Hida beef. Staff didn't speak much English, but they were patient with our very limited Japanese. We had an early start the next morning and they still made breakfast for us. I'm grateful they were so flexible.

Getting here from Shirakawago was straightforward: take the Nohi bus toward Maki from Shirakawago station, get off at Hiraseonsen, then it's a one-minute walk to the ryokan. The bus ride is about 15 minutes by car, as described. We had a magical stay, especially with the snow around in winter. The private onsen felt very romantic, our room was nice, and everyone was so welcoming despite speaking little English. Dinner was delicious and beautifully plated, though it was more meat-focused than at other ryokans we've stayed in.

The quiet surroundings made it easy to relax here. The package came with a Japanese-style dinner and breakfast, and dinner included the well-known Hida beef, which is among the best beef in Japan. There are two private hot springs and one public one. Guests can use them from 3 p.m. until 1 p.m. the next day. I'd say this is one of the area's best traditional Japanese hot-spring hotels.

After a few hectic days in Tokyo, this place was a lovely change of pace. The meals were some of the best I've ever had, really traditional and beautifully presented. The house itself is stunning, spotless, and clearly well looked after. I'd definitely recommend it.