Onyado Yuinosho

We had a simple, pleasant breakfast before checking out, though with our group of 4 adults and 4 kids, staff seemed a bit stretched. We had to follow up on a few items that had been forgotten even after about 30 minutes into service. We skipped the hotel dinner because the per-person price seemed high, and we weren't sure the kids would enjoy the traditional local food. We'd picked up finger foods in Shirakawa-go, so cup ramen was enough for supper. The hotel mentioned free simple ramen at night, but what we found was more like soba in clear broth, which didn't appeal to us. A complimentary coffee and hot chocolate machine was available until late, which was a nice touch. We stayed one night after visiting Shirakawa-go, before heading on to Hakuba. The building has traditional style alongside some modern facilities. Since the entrance has woven flooring, guests take their shoes off and store them in lockers before check-in, with slippers provided. Noise insulation is limited, which makes sense for this kind of building, but can be noticeable with loud guests or kids running around. It worked well for a short transit stay.

The food was one of the worst meals I've had, though I realize that's subjective. Much of the menu was octopus, snails, and raw fish, which I don't enjoy. I barely ate breakfast beyond the yogurt, and wish there had been more choices without seafood or at least more meat. If seafood isn't your thing, I'd look for food in town instead. Compared with the traditional Japanese meals we had in Hakone, which were much more refined, this felt like a step back into another era in an unpleasant way. Our first room was on the second floor, and the whole floor smelled strongly of cigarettes. Staff kindly found us another room on the third floor, which was noticeably bigger. Still, I didn't come away with a good impression of the hotel. There was no luggage storage on departure day, inconvenient if you want to visit Shirakawa-go before leaving, and no staff outside to help with parking. A permanent sign even says, “Sorry, our clerk is not here today.” The onsen facilities have seen better days. Rooms are dated, though the Japanese tatami style mixed with a little Western influence has some charm. I found the hotel overrated. If your main aim is Shirakawa-go, I'd stay in Takayama or Kanazawa and visit for the day, where you can likely find a much higher standard of accommodation.

Our room looked out over the river, and the winter view was serene. The hotel is quite far from Shirakawa-go village, but the drop-off service and extra amenities made up for that. The private Onsen had picturesque views, and the complimentary late-night ramen felt like a luxury. I'd also recommend the extra breakfast and 1000yen lounge service, which came with unlimited snacks and drinks.

The stay at Onyado Yuinosho was the highlight of our Shirakawago visit, especially breakfast by the window facing the mountains. Dinner was quite an experience too, so make sure you book both meals if you can. Our waiter, Yoshiki Nakagaito, explained each dish, the available sauces, and how to enjoy everything. The attentive service made it easy for beginners. The onsen was well equipped and a decent size. There's a private option that you can use when it's unoccupied, with no booking system, which I liked.