Pirika Rera Hotel

The food was the best we've eaten on this trip, even on our 12th day in Japan. I can't recommend dinner and breakfast enough. The onsen was lovely, straight from the source and undiluted, and service felt warm in this cozy hotel with just six suites. I was so tempted to keep this place to ourselves. The location isn't especially exciting. It's more local than the usual tourist towns full of souvenir shops, but it's close enough to the station for a pleasant walk of about 1 km in winter sunshine. We spotted a COOP nearby, which was a nice find for supermarket fans like us, though once you're inside the hotel you may not feel like leaving. It's a real surprise to find a place that feels five stars in every way, especially with so much overtourism elsewhere. It reminded me why I love japan.

The food was great, with local ingredients that seemed carefully prepared, and breakfast was delicious. Drinks in the fridge are free, too. This is a relaxing little hotel with few guest rooms, so you hardly see other guests except at mealtimes. The exterior seems unassuming, but inside feels luxurious. It's a moor hot spring, and there's a hot spring in the room as well. You can choose Japanese or Western cuisine, served in separate dining areas with different chefs. The private open-air bath is spacious and free, though reservations are required. It was a perfect stay for me.

The only thing I regret is booking just one night. After dinner, I'd already decided to stay three nights or more next time, and I'm planning that longer visit now. I live in Canada and come to Japan five or six times a year for work, travel, and family reunions. This stay was worth it enough to erase the tiredness of a 14-hour flight. I felt even a 20-hour flight would be worth it for this inn. The hot spring, meals, and service were all excellent. It's a rare moor spring, so gentle that my skin felt smooth and moisturized without cream, even in Hokkaido's dry winter. Tarumi Onsen in Kagoshima is the only place I've found with similar water. There are six rooms, and the open-air bath needs a reservation. It was very clean, the temperature was just right, and I felt the water circulation was carefully managed. You can also drink the spring water straight from the source at the entrance, and it tasted good. The food was at least Michelin-star quality, maybe even better. It was among the three best meals I've ever had. I had Japanese cuisine this time and would choose it again, or try the teppanyaki next visit. The chef explained the ingredients and cooking methods, which made the meal even more enjoyable.

This is one of my favorite hotels, and I almost want to keep it to myself. Each room has its own private bath with free-flowing hot spring water. The high-quality moor spring makes you want to soak again and again, and the private open-air bath feels spacious enough to lie down in. The teppanyaki French dinner was superb, especially with wine pairings from the sommelier.