Ryokan Yamatoya

Dinner was a highlight, and Takachiho is only about a five-minute drive away. It’s a comfortable, updated traditional ryokan, with a few retro touches still around. Old photos make it clear that the entrance, reception, and rooms have been renovated. Our unit had two rooms with two single beds apiece, plus two toilets and two sinks, one in the entryway, enough space for two couples or a family of four. The toilets were modern and the sinks wide, though the lack of hand towels was a nuisance. Each room had its own air conditioner for heating or cooling. The beds were generally comfortable, but the blanket seemed a little dated. Old-style shoji screens covered the windows, and felt flimsy. With no curtains, outside light came in, but the area was quiet and I slept fine. The only bath is downstairs beside the kitchen, so you get a whiff of old cooking whenever you go. It was tiny but regularly cleaned. Onsen and bath towels were there, along with basics like toner and moisturizer. The staff were professional and kind. They came out to greet us and carried our luggage to the room. We felt bad having a frail elderly lady porter our suitcases when we could have carried them ourselves, but that’s the level of service they provide.

The service was top notch, and both breakfast and dinner during my two-night stay were amazing. I was completely stuffed by the end. The bath is small, but it wasn’t busy when I visited, so I got to enjoy it by myself. The hotel is a short walk from the bus Center and Takachiho Shrine.

The staff were kind, and the rooms were clean with good service. I wish they accepted credit cards. We stayed one night, and since we needed to check out at 5 am the next day, the staff took care of all the formalities in advance. In the morning we just picked up our luggage and shoes and walked out. There aren’t many food options nearby for vegetarians, so I bought cup noodles from the convenience store and used hot water from the hotel.

The friendly staff and the food earn four stars, especially the excellent tataki shown in the picture, I think. The room was very clean, but noise around 4 am or so brought my rating down to three stars. Maybe it was the boiler or water pump, or perhaps the neighbors. I’m not sure. If it was the boiler or pump, I’d give it one star. Go to Kunimi for sunrise, even if there are no clouds, you won’t regret it. Book a taxi ahead of time.