Kaemon Ryokan

I travel a lot and have stayed in all sorts of places in Japan and abroad, from dorms to Japanese-style rooms. This stay cost 6,500 yen, and for me it was nowhere near worth it. There were so many problems that I wouldn't book again even if it were the only place available. I stayed in the East Wing. I booked through one of the two major lodging sites, the one with a four-hiragana-character name, and the room in the photos was nothing like what I got. The inn has a Main Wing and an East Wing. In the East Wing room, the tatami was lumpy, with gaps over a centimeter wide and lots of dust and debris showing through. Food crumbs were scattered around, and it felt like the room hadn't been cleaned. My feet felt gritty as I walked. There were odd stains on the sliding doors, signs of a leak, and holes in the walls. The room door opened onto an outdoor passage, and a gap of about a centimeter under it seemed to come from the building being warped. I'm allergic to mosquitoes, so I used a towel to block it. One wall had lace curtains, while the lower half of the other was frosted glass. I was a little concerned about being seen, though it didn't bother me once I was asleep. The futon felt like a rice cracker. At 161 cm tall, I found it just long enough, but because of my hunched back I couldn't comfortably sleep on my back. That has never happened to me anywhere else. The sheets were sewn onto the futon to hold them in place, though I couldn't tell if they sew them for every guest. The building is old, and the walls are about as thick as sliding doors. The fluorescent light has an old pull switch, only around 15 cm long, so you can't reach it from bed. When I came back at night, it was pitch black and I had to go in to find the switch. There was a mat on the tiled hallway floor, but it wasn't non-slip and I nearly fell. The only bath is on the first floor of the Main Wing. From the East Wing's second floor, getting there means crossing an outdoor passage and going down a steep staircase. I worried about bugs coming into my room every time I went out, so I only managed to go once at night and once in the morning. I think my room was the farthest of the inns from the train tracks, yet the trains were easy to hear. There aren't many trains like there are in the city, so that wasn't too much of an issue. I didn't sleep well and was proud of myself for cutting my planned two-night stay down to one after reading the reviews beforehand. Even at half the price, I wouldn't stay here again. I'd rather take an uncleaned dorm where only the sheets are changed. The listing should have said the East Wing corridor is outdoors. If it had, I wouldn't have booked it. The window connecting the wings is wide open, so it seems insects could be an issue in the Main Wing too. The Main Wing tatami is new, and seeing that made me think things would be fine. That impression lasted about three minutes. The area where the landlady lives is clearly better, which makes the situation feel even more complicated. The innkeeper seems unable to manage her old house by herself. I don't think the landlady is a bad person, but she's not very capable. If running the inn is her livelihood, I feel she should at least be able to help with the bookkeeping.

The meals were a highlight for our family. Dinner came with appetizers, tempura, salad, sashimi, simmered food, teriyaki scallops and more, plus delicious rice. The head chef's special soup even had grapes grown on site in it. Everything tasted good; my only request would be a little more sashimi given how close we were to the sea, and some local specialties. Breakfast was a tasty, classic Japanese spread. We came as a family of four for a summer beach trip, our first time at this inn. Reviews were mixed, but we had a great stay and the kids loved it. It's a little under a four-minute walk, which I measured, to beautiful Wakasa Wada Beach, the first beach in Asia to receive the international environmental certification "BLUE FLAG." It's very convenient for swimming. There's not much else nearby, though Lawson and Family Mart are less than a two-minute drive away. The inn is on a national highway, but road noise didn't bother us. We could hear the railroad crossings from our room. The building is old, a Showa-era place, and I found that part of its charm. It reminded me of visiting grandma in the countryside. I thought the kids might dislike it, but they were delighted. There's also a beautifully renovated old house next door that can be rented. The dining room with private rooms, women's bath, men's toilet and what seems to be the innkeeper's living area are on the first floor; guest rooms are upstairs. At first glance, there are several Kyoto-style rooms from 4.5 to 8 tatami mats in size. One family rented two together, and there are also rooms in a separate building. The men's restroom is only downstairs, which is inconvenient, though the washlet and automatic seat are new and clean. The building is well kept. The fridge, pot and cups are shared, and there's coffee. There's also a washing machine outside for laundry after the beach. Our room was an old eight-tatami room, separated from the hall by a sliding door that doesn't lock from outside. You can hear people across the hall and walking by, so it won't suit anyone wanting quiet or privacy. For me, that everyday guesthouse noise was part of the atmosphere. The room had a TV, dressing table, clothes rack and low table; the TV and air conditioner were new. There was no safe, a downside. Towels, toothbrushes and yukata were provided, along with a futon set that we laid out ourselves. The pillows were firm. The room was clean and comfortable. The women's bath has been renovated and is clean and new. The men's bath is in a separate building, with an old tiled tub that was a decent size and comfortable, with the feel of a beach guesthouse. It can also be used as a family bath. Outside it, there's a shower to rinse off sand and seawater. We got back from the beach around 3 pm, and appreciated being allowed to bathe early. There's also a hot spring at a roadside station about a five-minute drive away, and quite a few people seem to go there. It seems an older couple used to run the place, but now their son, a young man with a deep voice, appears to be in charge. He was thoughtful, and the mother still seemed active, busy with all sorts of things. For a spotless, private stay, I'd choose a resort hotel. But if you want a traditional Showa-era minshuku, I'd recommend this one. It was our first proper minshuku stay, and we loved the nostalgic summer holiday feeling. The kids did too. We'd be happy to stay again if we return to Wakasa.

There's a lot of harsh criticism, but at this price I think it's decent. If you want something better, you have to pay more. I went to a nearby spa for a bath. I saw the old man getting angry at an employee.

It really did feel like visiting grandma in the countryside, and we were very comfortable. There's a convenience store nearby, which was handy. We had plenty to eat at dinner and breakfast, and both meals were delicious. The room overlooked the Obama Line, so the kids got excited each time a train went past. I'd be happy to go again.