Suimeikan Karukaya Sanso

The meals were a brilliant introduction to Japanese cuisine, and you definitely won’t go hungry. Staff were meticulous, helpful, and full of useful information. The hot spring baths were tremendous, with a large shared mixed-gender area and impressive scenery, as well as private baths that each had their own feel. A fantastic place for hot springs and good food.

The onsen pools each have their own appeal. The mixed bath is enormous, with a cave section where you can soak in the hot water and think without being disturbed. The private baths are good too, including one just two meters from the rushing river. But the setting around the baths spoiled the experience. The onsen complex sits in the middle of a campground, and campers were walking around all the time. I even saw someone drive a caravan right around the mixed bath to leave the site. Being naked in the pool while people drive by on sightseeing trips is not cool. The room seemed nice, but mine wasn’t spacious enough for my family of three. The bigger issue was the smoking. Other guests smoked heavily, and the hotel was very smoker friendly. There was a designated smoking spot on an open couch in the main corridor, directly across from the kitchen and dining room. Smoking was also allowed in the tea room and the shared balcony area. The men’s bathing room became the building’s smoke sink, and smelled of cigarettes late into the night. At least the smell seemed to stay in public areas and didn’t reach our room. If you don’t like cigarette smoke, this hotel may not be right for you.

The meals still come to mind, especially the hoba miso, which was the best miso I’ve ever had. They showcase local ingredients like hoba miso and Hida beef, and when I asked where to buy the miso, the GM told me they make it in house. Everyone was so genuine and nice. We visited around the end of October or start of November, when the autumn leaves were at their peak. The baths had stunning views, and I loved having three private baths to choose from. You can pick up their keys at the front desk whenever you like. Getting there takes a bus from Takayama and is a little difficult. From what I remember, after getting off you walk back along the road a bit, then take the path down the hill to the hot springs inn. You can manage without Japanese, but knowing the basics would make the visit better, since not many foreigners come here. It’s been four years since my visit and I still think about this place all the time.

Dinner was exquisite, with lots of small plates: tofu, sashimi, beef and vegetables in a pot, soups, tempura, and more. Afterwards, near sunset, the owner arranged an excursion out back to see fireflies. The onsen has several baths in a beautiful spot by the river, and we tried both a private family bath and the shared mixed-gender one. We arrived a few hours before check-in, but the kind owner couple immediately offered to drive us to the Shinhotaka ropeway so we could spend the time up the mountain. When we returned, they took us to our room, served tea, and explained the facilities. Only one staff member spoke good English, but everyone was friendly and helpful and managed to communicate. I can only recommend this personal, beautiful, enjoyable experience.