Guesthouse Okagesan

The house has a lot of character, is clean, and has enough room for far more than the two of us. We stayed here on 20/06/2025 while hiking the Kumano Kodo for four days, and it was perfect. It’s an entire house in a beautiful village, and a very different experience from most other places. Manabu-san had left us rice balls to take on our early morning hike, which we really appreciated. We had dinner at the owner’s Yakitori restaurant in the village, and it was super tasty. Watarase Onsen is a 10-minute walk away, with outdoor Onsens. We went in the evening with a coupon from the owner. Be sure to try it if you visit. And take a look at the stars at night, the view from the house is quite something.

Watarase is a small town with a really chill vibe. The public hot spring is worth visiting, and you can stargaze on the way there. After just two days, I found myself wishing I could retire here. It’s a perfect little getaway, and I’m already looking forward to coming back. The house has an old charm, but doesn’t feel old. It was cozy and had everything we could need, including a futon and heater mat that kept us warm. In the morning, feeding birds and watching sparrows in the garden was a peaceful, refreshing start to the day. I had an amazing two-day stay and can’t recommend it enough. The host was incredibly kind and friendly, and went out of his way to make sure we had a great time. He treated us to breakfast and snacks, and even made the bed one day while we were out hiking. It was a thoughtful touch that showed how much he cares about his guests’ comfort. Thank you for everything!

The house is a quiet, peaceful place next to the river, and the sound of flowing water is soothing at night. It’s spacious and comfortable, warm in the areas where we spent most of our time. You do need to be comfortable staying in a house without a lock. We were fine with that and felt very safe. Manabu-san was thoughtful and generous throughout our stay, making sure we had everything we needed. He brought us rice balls every morning with lovely handwritten notes, wishing us well and asking if we were doing all right. He also left seeds and water for the birds on the verandah. You wake to birdsong, and there’s a special sliding window in the front paper-screen door so you can watch the birds through a clear screen from your warm bedroom. There’s also a washing machine and dryer in the yard for guests to use. The house is more than 100 years old, with the features of an authentic Japanese mountain home: tatami floors, sliding fusuma doors, an irori hearth, and an old-fashioned kamado rice cooker built into the kitchen floor. It has antiques but is also fully furnished with modern facilities. Supplies were generous, including good instant and drip coffee, black and green tea, snacks replenished daily, toiletries, and plenty of towels. We didn’t cook, but saw cooking supplies in the kitchen and fridge. Mahabu san brought us really tasty rice balls every morning. I’d read that Yamamoto Genpo Roshi, a famous and respected monk in the Showa era, had visited the house. I can’t verify that, though I did see photos of a monk on the wall. There’s a nearby grocery stall where you can park and get supplies. Manabu san owns an izakaya nearby where you can eat really yummy food. The onsens and Kumano Kodo trails are easy to reach, and Watarase onsen is about a 10-minute walk away. This really felt like a home away from home.

Guesthouse Okagesan is in Watase, an onsen town deep in Wakayama’s Kumano Kodo region. It’s a traditional house turned into a travelers’ inn, and I felt cozy and comfortable there. I was surprised by how well supplied it was, including small traditional Japanese snacks. They also provided discount vouchers for Watarase Onsen, the largest in western Japan, about a 15-minute walk away. Just be aware the vouchers can only be used from 8am onward. The owner, Manabu-san, made the visit especially memorable. He was helpful, friendly, and funny, with a playful, creative personality that comes through in the guesthouse. His yakitori place serves delicious local specialties, so be sure to check it out. Before I left, he prepared a delicious, filling onigiri breakfast with a handwritten note of thanks. As a foreign resident of Japan who’s traveled extensively around the country, I found Wakayama a lovely, out-of-the-radar destination. Japanese countryside hospitality at its best, and my stay at Guesthouse Okagesan made the visit extra special.