Hohoemino Kuyufu Tsuruya

We wished we’d had more than one night here. This modern-style ryokan was a peaceful oasis in the middle of Tendo city. After staying at other ryokans in Yamagata, we were struck by the warm, attentive service, lovely facilities, and how thoughtfully the design balanced looks with function. Truly one of our best stays in Japan.

I loved relaxing in the lobby by the garden, where there’s a chair that’s perfect for reading. The ryokan is beautiful and very well kept. Dinner and breakfast were both delicious and worth what we paid. The onsen has one indoor bath and one outdoors. Such a great stay.

We spent two nights here and took a day trip to Ginzan Onsen. The town is known for Japanese chess, though there isn’t much else to do, and in winter even a five-minute walk can be tough. The wind is strong, so dress warmly if you’re heading to the scattered restaurants or souvenir shops. The hotel has a shuttle pickup, so check with them when booking. Inside, it’s a vintage ryokan that’s been very well maintained. The rooms are spacious and have a pleasant old-style Japanese feel. You could easily spend the day lounging and soaking in the hot spring. The onsen is small but cozy, especially outdoors, and seeing snow fall while you soak is lovely. It wasn’t crowded. Meals are included, breakfast and dinner. I often wasn’t sure what I was eating, but the meals were pleasant overall. The tea and locally brewed wine or sake were smooth and flavorful. Staff of all ages were friendly and helpful. Many didn’t speak English, but made an effort to communicate with a translation app. They were genki and always smiling. The older men even carried our huge luggage upstairs to the second floor for us. People in this small town seemed simpler and more modest.

The Japanese breakfast was an amazing experience, and the hotel was spotless and newly refurbished, especially the rooms. The staff stood out for being super efficient, friendly, and always around when needed. I’d definitely use this place as our base again if we revisit the northwest region.