Komadori Sanso

The food was delicious and healthy, with an amazing range of things on the plate, including plenty I’d probably never tried before. Even familiar things surprised me, I didn’t know tamago could be that good. The staff were very kind, and the view from the room was gorgeous. I had such a lovely stay. You can also ask to join a Shinto morning ritual at the local shrine, as long as you let them know the day before.

The quiet was what I remember most, deeply peaceful, almost deafening in the best way. The location right by the shrine and the easy access to nearby trails made the stay even more memorable. This family-run place has been in its 18th generation since 1776. Everyone was warm, friendly, and accommodating. They kindly arranged a morning tamagushi and an early breakfast on our last day so we could catch our train without stress. I highly recommend booking dinner, the food was excellent.

The bath was my highlight. They schedule bath times so you can have the bathhouse to yourself, with a beautiful cedar tub and yuzu fruits floating in it. The food was absolutely delicious, almost too much of it, and included some meat dishes like duck and chicken. They’re Shinto, not Buddhist. The staff were all friendly. It seemed to be run by a young woman, and I didn’t see any male staff. My room was basic but clean, and I had no issues. There were two other pairs from Europe while I was there. This was my first shukubo, so I wasn’t sure what to expect. Komadori felt a bit like staying in a ryokan, but in someone’s home, like a Japanese B&B. You can also attend a morning prayer ceremony at Mitake Shrine, though it’s only in Japanese. The priest leads a fairly short ceremony for you to follow, then spends most of the time telling the history of the temple.

The climb up is steep and a bit of a workout, so take a backpack rather than a trolley bag like I did. The booking information clearly says that, but I missed it. The views and peaceful, authentic atmosphere make the effort worthwhile, and there are countless trails and mountains right nearby for solo travelers who want to hike every day. I had an incredible stay at Shukubo Komadori-sanso (Komadori Sanso). As a foreign traveler, I was touched by how warmly the owner welcomed me. The meals were amazing, authentic Japanese food that felt both home-cooked and refined, and every dish was a highlight. I’ll definitely come back. Highly recommended if you’re looking for nature, solitude, and authentic Japanese hospitality.