Hoshino Resorts KAI Unzen

In autumn, you can see the fall colors from the after-bath area, or enjoy the open-air bath attached to a guest room. The building draws on Nagasaki’s Japanese, Chinese, and Dutch roots to create an exotic mood, with that feeling carried throughout, including in the local letterpress printing experience. Meals feature fugu, spiny lobster, and Japanese beef in Ago dashi shabu-shabu, followed by the well-known Shimabara udon. The travel library also reflects Nagasaki’s distinctive culture of trading with the world during its period of isolation.

The rooms have a real presence, and the breakfast and dinner are delicious and distinctive. The food is Japanese style, so don’t expect Western dishes. Restaurant staff were top notch and could speak English.

The meals and outdoor bath were the best parts for us. Our dinner server was attentive, spoke fluent English, and explained every dish carefully. Everything looked beautiful and tasted great. It was the first time I’d finished a full set course meal, and even the kids’ meal was a work of art. It snowed lightly during our stay, and having the outdoor bath to ourselves felt magical. The vinegar drink and fruit popsicles afterward were lovely touches. We also enjoyed the letter printing experience and the convenient shuttle to and from Nagasaki Airport and Isahaya Station. The property is right beside the jigoku pools, where we took a stroll after breakfast. It was our first KAI stay and we loved it. The room was clean and massive, with comfortable beds and a luxurious rain shower. The comforters were so thick that we got hot at night. It would have been nice to adjust the temperature in half-degree steps. The one downside was a nasty foot smell by the elevators on the third floor. Maybe the guests there had really bad BO, or maybe the carpets need replacing.

The travel library and shop were a nice surprise, with quality publications and local treats. I also hope visitors will support the town and its recovery after the 2021 landslide, including its lovely little home-style restaurants. It’s well worth the journey from Fukuoka. The staff, chefs, and whoever designed the menu did a wonderful job. I’ve traveled around Japan for years, including to onsen and ryokan, and these were the best two meals I’ve had there. They were explained and served in fluent English at a pleasant pace. I was pleasantly surprised by the food, and all the staff were kind and professional. As someone with limited Japanese, I really appreciated how easy it was to communicate in English. My only small qualm was the lack of an easy way to get drinks or ice when using a private onsen room. The public bath area had plenty to help guests stay hydrated, but getting enough to drink while bathing in-room felt difficult, even though hydration matters at an onsen. I’d recommend staying here to friends visiting Japan.