Onsen Minshuku Umibe

On my third trip to Noto since the earthquake, and my first to Wajima, I stayed at this hot springs guesthouse near the mouth of the Tsukada River as part of a reconstruction support trip. I’d planned to come from Udezu via Sonogi, but some roads were only open to construction vehicles and local residents, so I went through Anamizu instead. I took a shorter route through a mountain village I’d never visited, though the roads were in poor shape, with emergency repairs and traffic cones still in places. The damage along Prefectural Route 1, Wajima’s main road, was striking. There were slope collapses and broken embankments everywhere. The quaint rural scenery was gone, with only bright cherry blossoms in bloom. After reaching Wajima, I visited Shirayone Senmaida rice terraces, Kamogaura, Wajima Morning Market Street, Juzo Shrine, and Marine Town. The following day, I went to Wajima Morning Market at Wajima Y Plaza and Kaiso Fishing Port, where the land had risen 4 meters. Seeing these places helped me understand the situation. I also spoke with the wife of Juzo Shrine and an inn owner about what the local community hopes for, and it made me think again about who reconstruction is for. I know one person’s efforts can only do so much, but I’d like to keep visiting. At check-in, there was no staff around. I wondered what to do, then spotted a room key with my name on it on the table and managed to check in without a problem. My room was on the third floor, Japanese-style, with shared bathroom and toilet. I could see the Tsukada River and the famous Hotel Koshuen from the room. The gender-separated baths were very pleasant, with calcium and sodium chloride spring water. I only stayed overnight, so I had dinner at Wajima Sushi Dokoro Shinfuku, where I ate eight pieces of local Noto sushi. For breakfast, I bought croissants and sweet bean buns from a local bakery.

I stayed here while doing disaster relief work. The toilets, sinks, and bathrooms were shared, but I could relax comfortably and didn’t find it inconvenient. The innkeeper was kind, too.

I’ve stayed here several times before. I couldn’t come during the COVID-19 pandemic, and after things settled down I worried when I found they weren’t taking reservations. I was relieved to hear the former owner had retired and someone new had taken over. When I returned after such a long time, the rooms and dining room were unchanged, and I was glad each room still had its lovely name. The young couple seemed to be working hard while raising their children. The stairs are covered in tatami, so you can walk up without slippers, just as pleasantly as before. The shared toilets and sinks were spotless, and everyone I met was nice. There are all kinds of places to stay, but this one felt like just the right amount of distance, and I could relax. I hope to visit again in June. I keep wondering if you were all right in the New Year’s Day earthquake. I’m thinking of Wajima and remembering the sound of the waves. I hope it recovers, bit by bit, so we can meet again when you’re well. Please take care of your health. I sincerely hope everyone is safe and that you can return to ordinary life peacefully.

We stayed as a group of eight, five adults and three children under elementary school age, and booked the room without meals. The price was reasonable, and everything felt clean and comfortable, including the room, toilet, bath, and washroom. The woman at check-in and the man at check-out, who may have been the owner, were very helpful. Since we weren’t having meals there, I asked about nearby restaurants. They kindly suggested one, and the food was delicious. By chance, nobody else was in the bath, so three adults and two children could use it. It felt great, though with only four showers it would be full if two mother-daughter families were in there. We’d read reviews and brought our own towels, which was a good idea. They only provided small towels, so bring bath and face towels. I’d be happy to stay again. Thank you.