Takamiya Ryokan Miyamaso

The meals were great, and the people serving them were lovely. The rooms are spacious, though cleanliness could be better. Service elsewhere brought the stay down. At check-in you might feel like a VIP, but by checkout I felt like a thief. Suzuki, the older man at the front desk, kept staring without helping, then said they were short-staffed while two other staff stood nearby like bodyguards. Reading the lowest-rated reviews, I saw I wasn’t the only one who found him rude. I hope the owner looks into it.

Dinner and breakfast were both wonderful. The Yamagata beef and Zao beef were so tender and rich tasting that I wanted to order them again. The staff were attentive and warm, and I felt cared for the whole time. There’s a long flight of stairs up to the property, but it was manageable. I’d suggest packing light. After a great stay, the hot spring was just right for relaxing both body and mind.

The restaurant staff were warm and helpful, and the meals were good, especially the sukiyaki. The menu might get repetitive if you stay a long time. That was about all I liked. Think carefully before booking. The ryokan is wildly expensive for what you get. The onsens felt poorly kept, with grout everywhere, and were so hot I could only soak for about a minute. There were few toiletries, and having to carry your towel everywhere was unlike my experience at other ryokans. The snacks were basically just small servings of peanuts. There were also so many bugs, and my room wasn’t cleaned thoroughly. I left a hanger on the floor during my stay to see if anyone would pick it up, and nobody did. If you only speak English, getting help may be difficult. They kept saying services were fully booked or they were understaffed, though I didn’t think that was true. The tall older man at reception always seemed annoyed with me. Skiers and snowboarders should also know the uphill walk is very challenging, and there are closer places to the slopes.

The food was the only saving grace. For the premium price, I expected much better maintenance and treatment. Our toilet bowl was loose and shook, and the shower drain was clogged. The public onsen shower head had visible slimy black and green growth all over it. I couldn’t take a photo because photography is prohibited there, but it was clearly dirty. The building’s age doesn’t excuse that kind of neglect. I also felt ignored and redirected by an older male staff member, who I believe was Suzuki-san. Other staff brought our shoes directly to us, but he left ours at the far end of the entrance, about two metres from where we sat, without a word. When I politely asked in English to book a private onsen, he acted as if he didn’t understand and kept speaking Japanese. I translated my request on my phone, but he still wouldn’t address me directly and kept answering my husband instead. The next morning at checkout, he spoke fluent English with my husband, so it seemed clear he understood English all along. Being ignored while I was the one speaking felt motivated by both race and gender. Paying premium rates for poor upkeep and what felt like discrimination was unacceptable.