Anrakuso

A classic Ryokan hotel with very friendly owners. The breakfast was amazing, and we really enjoyed our stay.

There was a sofa and bookshelf by the public bath, a nice little place to sit and relax. I used the bath twice and never found anyone there, perhaps because the inn wasn't very busy, though the bath might feel cramped at a busier time. It wasn't all that large and only had three showers. The inn is a little way from the hot spring town, but its own hot spring was more than satisfying. From outside I thought it might be old-fashioned, but inside it was cleaner and less dated than I expected. My futon was already laid out when I got to the room. The toilet and sink shared a space with the bath at the back. It was a curious room, and the colors and tile clashed with the rest in a way that made for a nice, offbeat retro feel.

The inn sits across the river from the hot spring town's main street, and feels like a quiet hideaway. I've been coming every year for the past 10 years. They were already limiting guest numbers before the COVID-19 pandemic, and depending on the season, we often have the baths almost to ourselves. The meals mix traditional dishes with creative ones, and I often take photos before I even pick up my chopsticks. Portions are generous, so most people will probably leave full unless they eat a lot. There's Wi-Fi too. It's a lovely fit if you want to relax and enjoy some peace and quiet.

The room's bath also uses natural spring water. I filled it when I arrived, let it cool, then added more spring water as I bathed, which made for a really comfortable soak. The large public bath is actually quite small, and the spring water is very hot. I couldn't stay in for long unless I added cold water. These are just my personal impressions, but although the facilities are undeniably old, it didn't bother me much. They're kept clean. Meals are served already laid out. Some reviews say they're cold, but given the effects of the pandemic and staff shortages, I think that's understandable. There's a TV in the private room too, and for the price I think it's good value.