Onogawa Onsen Umeya Ryokan <Yamagata>

We stayed in a relaxing guest room with traditional charm, in this lovely old-fashioned inn right in the hot spring town. The hot springs, food, and service were all top-notch. There’s an indoor public bath and an indoor private family bath, which was just the right size for two. My skin felt so smooth afterward, a sign of how good the water was. I picked the Yonezawa beef sukiyaki plan for dinner and was completely full. Along with the sukiyaki, there was grilled fish, tempura, soba noodles, natto soup, carpaccio, and plenty more. The flavors were quite robust and satisfying. One male staff member took care of us from check-in through breakfast and dinner, and even saw us off. Thanks to him for the recommendations too: both the ramen restaurant and dumpling shop were delicious. I’d love to come again!

We only went for a day visit this time, but I’d like to stay overnight next time. The water was superb. The front desk staff explained that they don’t dilute the spring water. It wasn’t especially viscous, but it had a rich, concentrated feel, the kind that makes you think, “Ah, this is a hot spring, this is a great bath!” There was a flea market corner by reception, where my daughter was delighted to find some rare SunSun puppet merchandise.

The hot spring is the best part: the water flows freely, always feels fresh, and is gentle on the skin. The food was delicious too, with local Onogawa dishes. I came for a second time and would definitely like to visit again. I took a bus from Yonezawa Station and the inn was right in front when I got off. The owner greeted me with a smile and explained the retro decorations around the entrance, which was fun. My Japanese-style room was well cleaned.

The owner was polite and kind, and I really appreciated the service. The food was plentiful, with delicious seasonal and local dishes, simply impeccable. The hot spring water flows freely and has a pH of 6.9, so it’s almost neutral. Heat exchange keeps it at a comfortable temperature, and I could soak for hours. I’d love to stay here again.