Ryokan Tsuruya Intaku

I really loved this place!

The food was very good, and I was glad the hot spring bath was private, even if it was small. Getting there means climbing some stairs, so it might not work well for people with lots of luggage or older people with weak legs. This is a small hot spring town, and the cobblestone road with red lanterns in front of the restaurant has a special atmosphere. They brought local Oita tea to our room, and it was delicious. The service feels more like staying at a relative's home than the cool, formal style of a luxury inn or big resort. Some guests will love that, while others may not. I can see this place splitting opinions, but I give it five stars.

We were happy with the generous, delicious meals morning and night. Dinner was yakiniku, though, and the smoke filled the room, so it may not suit anyone sensitive to smells. We also weren't told ahead of time when breakfast would be served, and I wish we had been. We tried the family baths. There was a large one and a small one, but cockroaches in the large bath put us off using it. The small bath's changing area barely fit two people, and the shower pressure was weak, which was inconvenient. The spring water itself was hot and refreshing. Since it's in the mountains, I expected insects, but a bee nearly flew in through the window a few times and that was scary. There are roads going up and down the mountain. The downhill route was winding and felt dangerous, while the uphill road was blocked by a landslide. We had to wait at traffic lights, so either way, allow plenty of extra time.

The landlady and staff were wonderful hosts, and all the food was excellent. The rice was especially good, along with the teppanyaki, tempura, salt-grilled trout, and even the ice cream dessert.