Casa Lila & Spa

I’m nearly 70, and it’s hard to say this out loud, but after 50 years of travel, around 80 countries, and hundreds of hotels, this is quite simply one of the best I’ve stayed in. From the busy street in the middle of the ancient Medina, you could almost miss the small entrance and single sign. Then you step inside, and it feels like Doctor Who’s Tardis. There are only about 10 bedrooms over four levels, all arranged around a central courtyard with tables, sunbeds, and more. It’s immaculately clean and artistically decorated. Up top, it’s quiet and peaceful, with a great view over the city. A sunny afternoon with a book up there is just about perfect. Breakfast is one of the best parts, both for the imaginative food and the friendly service in such a stunning setting. We loved our bedroom: a big comfortable bed, high-quality cotton sheets and pillows, spotlessly clean, and an architecturally stunning bathroom. There was tea, coffee, and air con too. It felt like a little oasis amid the Medina’s hustle and bustle. The whole team made a huge impression. Everyone was friendly, knew their job, and nothing felt like too much trouble. They really made it feel like home. One tip: there’s no permanent restaurant, but if you book ahead, the cook can come in during the evening and prepare a meal. The food was beautiful, the surroundings stunning, and the price very fair.