Wilderness Serra Cafema

Our visit to the Himbe village and the boat ride along the Namibia/Angola border are the memories that stayed with me. I feel lucky to have seen this authentic village, though it’s hard not to wonder how long a semi-nomadic way of life without modern influences can continue. The food was incredible too, with fresh ingredients and a different range of dishes each night, including cuisines from around the world. You wouldn’t guess how far from anywhere the lodge is from what they serve. The room was spacious, beautiful, and private, with a balcony and sliding doors that let it feel like one large space or be closed off at night. No air conditioning surprised me at that price, but the screened windows could stay open without inviting insects or critters in, and evenings were cooler. They even offered a thin wrap to dip in water to help keep cool. Serra Cafema was easily our favorite stop in ten days of staying at luxury properties around Namibia. The Kunene river setting is gorgeous. On our first evening’s ATV ride, we watched the sky go from stormy, to a rainbow, then sunset. Our guide Elias was attentive, thoughtful, and knowledgeable. He brought up subjects in a way that got the group asking questions and talking, so some outings ran longer because we were enjoying the conversations.

The scenery here is incredible, dunes, river, mountains, all of it. The Himba experience is well known, though I wonder how much longer the Himba can manage in current conditions. Without cattle or livestock, survival will be harder. It’s a striking spot beside a river in the middle of a deserted area, but there isn’t much wildlife beyond crocodiles. The staff were extremely friendly and the setup was excellent. People may complain about the lack of AC, but that’s part of being in an eco-friendly place. The pool helps in the heat of the day.

We were right on the Kunene River, with Angola across the north bank. We took a boat upriver, visited the Himba village, and went for a pleasant short hike to a viewpoint. The staff were great, and the food and wine made for a fun time.

The staff were friendly, and the rooms were lovely, with great river views. Food was the one drawback. Portions felt a bit limited, though there was enough, and I can understand that getting supplies so far from anywhere may not be easy.