Vanira Lodge

Dinner was better than I expected, with thoughtful presentation, and may be one of the better quality restaurants in the area. We skipped breakfast because it seemed expensive and pretty basic. The ocean view and sunsets are exceptional, and in theory the place has all the ingredients for romance, but it didn’t feel that way in reality. The bikes they offer are convenient for getting to Teahuapoo, though they’re in poor condition. The rooms shelter you from the elements but are very open air. You need to be okay with mosquitoes, pincher bugs, lots of ants, and the occasional bird if you leave food on the counter. Cleaning sheets and other things in that environment seems difficult, and there was a slight mildew smell. Roosters roam around and start crowing at 3-4am, with nothing to block the sound, so be ready to wake up then.

We loved the bungalow’s thoughtful design, especially the woodwork, details, and stone shower. It was in great shape and very clean when we arrived. The open air sections and mosquitoes had me a little worried, but it wasn’t an issue. The nets helped, and I only saw a gecko now and then. The resort is well maintained, with gorgeous flowers, fruit, and trees, plus an impeccable view. We had dinner twice and breakfast once at the resort restaurant, and all the meals were very good. Such a private, peaceful little gem away from tourists. Wish we could have stayed longer!

We stayed in the Vai Ora lodge, with its own private balcony, loungers, hammock, hot tub, and breathtaking view. The shower was outside, but private and secluded. We’d read about the wildlife and I was a little apprehensive about insects, especially spiders. In our two nights, we only saw small lizards coming in and out of the room, and they were harmless. This was the first stop on our honeymoon. Our flight landed very early, and we reached Vanira Lodge around 0730, though check-in wasn’t until 1500. The staff greeted us warmly, stored our luggage at reception, and let us use the hotel services while we waited. They went out of their way to get our room ready early. They were amazing. Vanira Lodge is so unique, it felt like a fairy tale or an episode of the Flint Stones. Breakfast had a good variety and generous portions, and the food and service at the restaurant were amazing both evenings. We’d recommend it if you’re in Tahiti and want a different kind of stay away from the tourist hot spots.

Tania at reception was lovely. I kept going to her with questions, and she made calls and arranged tours and activities for me since I don’t speak French. On my last day, she let me shower in one of the lodges well past checkout time, and gave me two glasses of coconut water as a thank you when I checked out. The office itself is another fairytale style architectural wonder. I didn’t eat at the lodge, so I can’t comment on the menu, though the restaurant looks adorable. Vanira Lodge is a one of a kind adventure, with an unusual landscape, architecture, and interior design. After driving up a short, steep hill for about 200 meters, I was constantly amused by what I saw. The road is shared, so you have to hope no vehicle is coming the other way. The place feels like time stopped when gnomes, hobbits, and fairies lived there, and the building openings make it seem as if the windows have no glass. In one lodge the whole window opening was uncovered, and I had to reach out to check that there really wasn’t a pane. I’m not a camper, and it took me two nights to get used to having nature so close. There were small creatures, maybe lizards, in my lodge, and I had to check before reaching for things in case one was sitting there. The lodge book says to keep all food locked in the fridge, or an uninvited friend may sample it. One thing could be improved. I was in one of the two lodges with plants growing on the roof. Soil and plants above the toilet had washed away, exposing the plastic roof. When it rained, drops hitting the plastic made the sound louder inside and partly interrupted my sleep. Expect a special experience, and stay open to a bit of adventure. It isn’t a “perfect” lodge, but it’s an imperfect, perfect adventure. Mauruuru to all the staff! I’ll miss you and want to come back soon!