Vale das Estrelas

We first found Al and Ana through their blog, which we'd followed for five years as they built an off-grid eco lodge in the wilds of coastal Alentejo. Once it officially opened, we had to come see it. The setting at the end of a long dirt road has wonderful views across the valley and rolling hills. We got up early for spectacular sunrises, and at night the sky was full of stars, with no light pollution. Al and Ana were lovely hosts and great company. Ana is a superb cook, and Al gave us a really informative tasting of local wines, including Talha, made in the ancient Roman way. After coastal walks, visits to beautiful sandy beaches and meals at great restaurants, it was nice to return to a very comfortable, spotless lodge. We miss Al, Ana and their furry friends. We'll visit again, and next time we hope to see how their next project, cultivating a vineyard, is coming along.

The only downside is the very rough track from the road. Take it slowly and you'll get there, and it's worth it. At night we saw millions of bright stars, so the name really fits. The view across the valley is amazing, and Al and Ana are wonderful, welcoming hosts who make great breakfasts and have fascinating conversations. The eco-lodge was clean and well equipped, with comfortable beds and great showers.

In between walks through the valley and along beautiful beaches, there were delicious breakfasts at the house and lots of lovely local restaurants to try for lunch or dinner. The peace and quiet was broken only by woodpeckers and coffee cups in the morning, then owls and wine glasses at night. A perfect place to recharge.

Our two-night visit turned into five days, and we still had to drag ourselves away. My husband had followed Al and Ana's blog for ages and was desperate to visit. We spent lazy mornings by the infinity pool, then used their thoughtfully put-together guide as our bible and ticked off unforgettable beaches, wild and secret, with breathtaking views and villages. Aquila was our home, perfectly equipped with everything we needed and more. The view was unlike anything we'd seen before. This really is an incredible, unique place in the heart of Alentejo. Al and Ana are the most perfect hosts, helped by Simon, Garfunkel, Albie and, of course, Val Kilmer. We'll definitely be back one way or another. Everyone needs to visit at least once x