Sintra Design Apartment_Palácio da Pena

The front desk staff were cordial and very nice, and kindly stored our bags until the room was ready. For a short overnight stay, the room had what we needed. But set your expectations carefully if you're coming for a four-star hotel. It's an old building in historic Sintra, so it's neither modern nor high-tech, and your stay depends on which room you get. I was in Dom José, which felt much like a basic two-star motel room. The hand soap dispenser was broken, so you had to remove the lid and tube to get soap. The toilet kept running and needed a second flush to stop. The shower pressure overwhelmed the drain, so water pooled across the shower and could spill over the floor lip unless we turned it off and waited for it to drain. The whole manor is musty and humid in Sintra's climate, so there was some mold smell throughout the house. That's expected. The entrance was hard to spot from the pedestrian street. It's up a steep slope that's roped off, and the house number isn't noticeable.

Getting there was a stressful start. The hotel is hard to find, set back up a narrow driveway rather than on the street, and off-street parking is difficult. With the crowds and one-way roads, do some research before you arrive. The new managers are lovely, and we saw no sign of mold. A little more attention to basics like enough toilet paper and toiletries would help. It's close to the main sights and good restaurants.

We got the charming old house we hoped for, with all its history and a spot near Sintra's old commercial center. Our room was spacious, the bed very comfortable, and the bathroom facilities were good. We used the air conditioning for one night and appreciated the big windows, which created a through-breeze on the other nights. Breakfast was simple but good, and the staff were helpful. We drove there, and Sintra is simply a terrible place to have a car. Next time we'll take the train and use the plentiful, inexpensive taxis or Uber drivers.

For over $130 a night, I expected more. You stay in a castle where a king spent three nights and four days, but it's a small town with little to do beyond one spa. I didn't enjoy the restaurant food, which costs $30-$50 a plate. Apart from one young waiter, the staff were rude and disrespectful, and pushed hard for tips. You can't eat or drink in the main area unless it's their food and drink. Wi-Fi is only available in the main space and it's slow. The room was small, with about a foot between the end of the bed and the wall. The bathroom had been updated, but the half wall around the shower didn't keep water in, so it got everywhere. They provide two robes, the grounds are beautiful, and there are lots of hiking options.