Baantonlamphu Pakpra

The breakfast was a favorite, simple Southern-style food but delicious. The room was spacious, clean, comfortable, and beautiful, and the place felt peaceful.

Sine greeted us at Baan Tonlamphy Pakpra with two juices, one regular and one local, and took time to explain them. We knew right away this was the traditional kind of experience we’d been missing. My wife and I had traveled in Thailand 10 years ago, and things had changed so much since then. That afternoon Sine arranged a boat trip to see the buffaloes. It was amazing, riding with a local fisherman as hundreds of swallows flew right over and beside us. The next morning we were up at 7 to visit the local market at Phatthalung, which Sine had offered to show us. She joined us for breakfast, explained what we were eating and how to eat it, and the food was delicious. She also organized a bus back to the hostel so we could explore the streets of Phatthalung without worrying about getting back. In the afternoon, her husband Noom took us to another spot and told us about the area's different birds. The day after, we got up early again for a two-hour boat ride across the lake to see the lotus flowers. I saw more kingfishers and bee eaters in those two hours than I had in my whole life. Pure magic. The two hosts are kind, and this is a quiet place in nature. We already miss it. It was the best place we stayed in Thailand, and I wholeheartedly recommend it.

The optional two-hour boat trip was great. It cost us somewhat more than the government-owned boat service, but we didn’t have to get up early and drive away. Having our own private boat right here felt like a plus. The staff were super friendly and sincere, and the room was clean, spacious, and had everything we needed. It was worth every baht. The room wasn’t soundproof, and there were insects and mosquitoes, which I can understand and expect.

Tonlamphu is a comfortable, rustic, family-run place. We spent two nights there after stopping in Phatthalung in December, when the big smiles on every face we met made us realize the city was a hidden gem. The owners have quite a story: they’re eco warriors who rallied the villagers to create Thailand’s first non-hunting area. The wildlife all around and the remarkable bird calls show that the protection is working.