Whistling Thorn Tented Camp

The night sky views were breathtaking, and after two weeks eating a traditional Tanzanian diet, the food here was especially good. We had an absolutely amazing time, with great, really friendly hosts.

It’s hard to review this camp fairly. If you love nature, want contact with the Maasai, and don’t care about comfort or hygiene, it may suit you. Still, check the prices on a booking site first and decide whether you think the stay is worth that amount. Online, the camp almost sounds like a luxury resort, which didn’t match what we found. At the end of our safari, after two days in a Serengeti tent camp where we’d been very happy, I arrived here with my family of five. We were welcomed warmly, and the people were generally very friendly. We liked the simple food and didn’t need anything more. Those were the positives. The tents were old and very basic. We could hardly close the entrance fully. There was a toilet, but the tank had enough water for exactly one flush, then needed refilling. Staff brought warm water for the shower when requested, but the stream trickled into one corner of the stall. We washed our hands and faces from buckets poured into a basin. There had been very few guests in the preceding months. We were the only ones there, and the guestbook suggested a visitor about every two weeks. The beds were dusty when we sat down. The pillows and blankets were very basic and seemed clean, though I deliberately didn’t inspect them closely. There were no mosquito nets, but we had only minor problems with mosquitoes. I don’t want to imagine what it’s like during the rainy season. Power for two lamps was available only from 6 to 10 p.m.; after that we needed flashlights. With electricity so limited, there were no cold drinks either. If you like the most basic kind of camping, you may be fine here. Anyone with even modest comfort requirements should stay away. Our Serengeti camp felt luxurious by comparison.

The Maasai were incredibly warm and friendly, and the food was delicious. The guestbook suggested that visitors came only every 7-10 days, and we were the only guests during our night there. Still, unless you know what you’re getting or have no particular requirements, this camp may be fine. For our family, we hadn’t known what the organizer booked, and it was completely unsuitable. The toilet flushed once, then a staff member had to refill its water. The hot shower water staff brought wasn’t enough for three people. Electricity ran only from 6 to 10 p.m., leaving the tents pitch black afterward. The beds were dusty and too short for tall people, and the tents couldn’t be closed all the way. There were numerous “employees,” as the camp is run by local Maasai, who apparently had hepatitis, which caused stomach upset during meals. If you’re specifically after this kind of experience, you may enjoy it. Otherwise, the camp shouldn’t be offered to unsuspecting guests.

At night, animals from nearby Tarnagire National Park visited the camp. In the morning I found tracks around my tent, including those of elephants, zebras, wildebeest and small predators. Sitting around the fire for “Bush TV” beneath the amazing starry sky was another highlight. It really felt like being among Africa’s explorers. The food was excellent, and the camp staff were friendly and helpful. The lodge follows eco standards I’d like to see more widely adopted. Its plan to put 20% of revenue toward developing the local community is worth supporting, as is the little gift shop that supports the local Maasai community. Unforgettable.