Al-Bashir

The hosts are happy to point tourists toward places to visit and share plenty of interesting things themselves. The hostess speaks excellent Russian and is very pleasant. This is a guesthouse close to both the old and new towns, with simple but cozy rooms, homemade breakfast, and check-in available at any hour. There’s a cozy courtyard too.

The Old Town is just a 5-10-minute walk away, and the New Town is even closer. This is a cozy little family-run hotel with four or five rooms, looked after by a very friendly couple. They speak excellent Russian and can advise you on where to go and how to get there. Breakfast is delicious and homemade, served in a cozy courtyard.

The hosts made this feel more like a visit with people than a hotel stay. They were a friendly older Uzbek couple, happy to chat about local life and answer questions. When I left before breakfast, the hostess even packed sandwiches for the road, which was a thoughtful touch. Breakfasts were homemade and tasty, the rooms felt lovingly put together, and the plumbing worked well with hot water. Lyabi Hovuz is about a five-minute walk away, right in the center. A couple of things bothered me. At 185 cm, I found the beds a little short, and eventually slept with the mattress on the floor. Also, the hostess used leftover shashlik from my fridge one evening without asking, though I had planned to take it with me the next morning. That left me uneasy because I’m sensitive about my belongings. Still, the guesthouse was otherwise great, a 10+, and I highly recommend it in Bukhara.

Breakfast is included, and there were fresh roses in our room. The decor is simple, but it has the basics and feels homey. The hosts were especially welcoming. They arranged a paid transfer and met us at the train with a sign. The place is close to the center, though it’s in a hidden farm area, so expect a couple of poorly lit turns.