Swan Cruises Halong

The bay was incredibly calm, especially where the boat stayed overnight, surrounded by rocks and small islands. I get seasick easily, so that was a real relief. Our guide also said the government is using tax money to clean the bay, though we did see rubbish in other parts of Ha Long Bay. I was traveling solo and booked the two-day cruise. It felt worth it: the views, crew, logistics, room, and the small group size of around 20-30 guests were all great. There was a lot to do, including kayaking, swimming, caves, squid fishing, board games, tai chi, and a cooking class. The food was really good too, even though Vietnamese food isn’t usually my favorite.

We picked Renea after spending ages comparing cruise prices, and Bai Tu Long was quiet and beautiful. It’s a relaxing trip for scenery and nature, though anyone after a big adventure or a party probably won’t find that here. The engine was turned off at night, so we slept well. Our room was cute and comfortable, the food tasted great, and the crew were lovely. Duc, our guide, was warm, funny, and knowledgeable from the start. The drinks are definitely pricey: $25 USD for two sodas, two mocktails, and three black coffees. Still, they didn’t charge extra for vegan or vegetarian meals, and drinking water was free on board. I’d say the cruise was worth it.

The guide was helpful and cool, and the staff were polite and friendly, though most didn’t understand much English. The cooking classes were odd: on the first day we learned to cut carrots into flowers, and on the second we rolled raw vegetables in rice paper. Halong Bay itself was breathtaking, which made us even more disappointed with the cruise. We’d booked four double deluxe rooms, advertised as 16 m2 with bathtubs. In reality, each room seemed no more than 5 m2, basically just enough for the bed. Our suitcases wouldn’t lie flat and had to stand in the gap between the bed and wall. The bathroom was perhaps 1.5 m2, with only a shower and no hot water, despite the bathtub shown in the listing. As soon as we entered, the strong smell from an air freshener hanging by the air conditioner was overwhelming, so we took it down. Then we noticed why it was there: the bathroom smelled terribly of sewage. There was no window to open. The walls were so thin we could hear our neighbors talking and doing things, and even found out one of them snored badly. The company felt dishonest, and I feel sorry for the people working there.

Lin was a lovely guide and told us about the bay and the efforts to protect it. We were in a quieter, less crowded offshoot of Halong Bay, with beautiful scenery and hawks flying around that were stunning to watch. Kayaking was a blast, even though it was my first time, and I’d do it again, but I’d leave my shoes behind. The beaches were lovely too. The cave was small and pretty, but crowded with other groups, so watch your step. The ship is older, but clean, cared for, and beautiful. Rooms are a bit tight, though you spend plenty of time on deck or looking out at the dragon spines. The staff were kind and helpful, and the food was amazing. They tried hard to handle allergies, but details can get lost in translation, so get help translating. A couple of downsides: the bed was hard as a rock and very uncomfortable, apparently changed after COVID. The air conditioning shut off during the night for some reason, so it got really hot. We don’t know whether we set it wrong or there was a generator issue. If the water is calm, maybe leave the window open just in case. Drinks cost a lot, though they don’t skimp on the booze, one mixed drink felt more like three. The pollution is sadly bad. They’re trying to help save the bay, so do your part, don’t throw anything overboard, and be mindful. You could even pick up rubbish you see on the shore or in the bay. Tourists are part of the problem too.