Puku Ridge Camp

Of the three camps we stayed at in South Luangwa NP, this one was easily our favorite. Innocent put in a lot of effort to find the wild dogs I was so keen to see. The accommodation was fabulous, the food was good, and every staff member we met was friendly and helpful. Nothing to complain about.

We only had one night at Puku Ridge, but it won us over completely. From lunch, animals were right in view: elephants and their babies, warthogs, hippos, baboons, impalas and buffalo. We kept spotting wildlife from our villa and while in the plunge pool too. In the dry season, they fill a little pond near the property, which makes for an incredible viewing spot. The lodge is peaceful and breathtaking, and the welcome after the two-hour drive from Mfuwe Airport was warm enough to make us feel at home right away. David, our guide, and Hillam, our tracker, were kind and knowledgeable, with real respect for nature. They made the game drive special. Thanks as well to Fred, Mathius, Michel, Johnson and the rest of the team for making us feel cared for. The team set up a lovely sundowner to end the day. Later, Johnson had prepared our star bed, so we slept outside beneath the huge African sky. Drifting off to bush sounds and waking beneath a blanket of stars was unforgettable.

The food was the best I've had at any lodge in Africa. It had award winning quality, but used fresh ingredients and was the sort of food I might actually manage to recreate at home. The rooms and shared spaces are gorgeous, too. During our five nights, Fred was a great guide, adapting to our changing wishes, and everyone we met at camp took pride in their work. Grant and Annieme really stood out for how they anticipated what guests needed. I like half a lemon in my water, and after I asked once, it was there at every meal. Nobody has been more eager to accommodate us and go beyond what we expected. They keep the camp running beautifully. We'd never stayed five nights in one place before, but I felt at home and didn't want to leave. A special place with wonderful people looking after you.

From the shaded deck, sometimes you can spot more wildlife from a comfortable armchair than on a game drive. You're surrounded by nature here, and the views across grass, swamp and seasonal lakes are stupendous. The permanent tents are large, set on concrete platforms, and feel quite posh. The food is spectacular as well. Evidence, who manages the place, does a great job. Being one of the Park's few lodges gives you that close-to-nature feel. It does cost a lot, but as a treat it's a wonderful place to stay.