El Questro - The Station

Three nights with the family wasn’t enough to see everything. Amalia gorge was a fantastic hike, with a lovely swimming hole at the end, and Zebedee springs was an easy walk to beautiful hot springs. We were there at the end of the season, so El Questro was quiet. The campsite was clean and organised, and the amenities were clean too. The washing machines take cards and coins. There’s a nice bar with friendly service and a small shop with mostly merch, plus a few essentials. The steakhouse had lovely food. A wonderful place to visit and stay.

A beautifully maintained station with plenty to do: great 4WD tracks and hikes, campsites, a restaurant with a vegan option, a bar and helicopter rides. I’d highly recommend it if you’re travelling the Gibb, or just driving between Kununurra and Wyndham.

The location is convenient for El Questro Gorge, Emma Gorge and Zebedee Springs, and we were glad to spend a few nights exploring the area. Still, the stay didn’t match what we’d expected for about $140 a night for two adults and three kids on an unpowered site. The showers were often cold or lukewarm, and there was no grey water disposal at our site, so we had to carry it to a disposal point. Front counter staff seemed a bit disengaged. It felt expensive for what was provided, and based on this visit, we probably wouldn’t return.

Twenty years ago we stayed for more than a week. There were fewer facilities, but loads of Kimberley charm. It had a soul then, and was much better. I used to rave about the place and recommend it to lots of people. I won’t anymore. We booked this trip largely to fish on the property, as we’d caught loads of barra here before, but now fishing is banned on all waterways for crocodile safety. People visiting the north of Australia know there are crocodiles. The website is confusing too: a headline description mentions a popular fishing spot, while the no fishing rule is tucked into the FAQs. Short walks to popular places close early as well. It was the end of September, 38° out, and the Emma Gorge track closed at 4pm. Zebedee Springs was closed too. Why? The staff are lovely and helpful, but the management is ridiculous. For the money, there’s little freedom to do anything, and the rules and restrictions have drained the character out of this magnificent place. It’s so disappointing that I regret booking and won’t be back. Maybe one day it’ll be sold to a group that understands the Kimberley and why people come here, and isn’t so risk averse. Until then, I’d say don’t put your vehicles or vans through the wear and tear. It’s not worth it. Better to take a day trip from elsewhere for one specific thing, then call it quits. -Adam