Fitzroy River Lodge

We watched the sun go down over the river, which may or may not have had water in it, while wallabies bounced around nearby. The pizza truck was a random but welcome surprise, turning out pretty good food. There's also a decent pool, restaurant and bar where you can mingle with locals, plus diesel on site that was apparently the cheapest in town. The campground is large and a little rough around the edges, though that makes sense given how remote it is and adds to its charm. The amenities block is big, and all the staff we met were friendly and efficient.

There were kids wandering around the campground and trying to get into other people's caravans and take things. The main camp toilet was dirty and smelled of urinals. I first thought the fridge was broken, then found out there was no power in the kitchen. The laundry machines were broken too.

Reception was lovely when we checked in, and the park felt like a safe place to stop. But after seven months of travel, this is the one place where I want my money back. We paid $60 for one night because it was halfway and we were stuck with that price. Our powered site was at the back, with only two other caravans in the park, and in the off season we couldn't walk to the pool or restaurant. The road was flooded and muddy, with grass up to my knees, and the weather was steaming hot. I know mowing in the wet season, especially after rain, is hard. The amenities, though, were full of bugs: beetles, spiders and moths, with holes all through the screens. I was desperate for a shower in the heat, but had to duck around bugs the whole time. The toilets had floating bugs even with the seats down, and the doors didn't close properly. There were also men standing around the toilet block, who might have lived in the block itself.

The sunset over the river was spectacular, and the visible security patrols helped us feel safe and comfortable. We were pleasantly surprised after arriving apprehensive from the negative reviews, and check-in hadn't really settled our nerves. Once we'd got set up, though, we were impressed by the restaurant, bar and pool. The best part was the food van, with homemade authentic Italian pizzas and fresh fish and chips. We'd recommend stopping here if you're passing through, though we would've happily stayed two nights.