Hopkins Bay Belize, a Muy'Ono Resort

Renting a golf cart made it easy to get around all of Hopkins, including the southern end, though biking into town was simple too. Remember bug spray, especially in late January when the bugs were bad, and book a snorkeling trip with Happy Go Lucky tours. With roomy accommodations and grounds, and not many other guests around, our stay felt wonderfully relaxed. The Rhum Shack was consistently good, especially with King tending bar in the mornings. We really enjoyed our visit.

The people are what keep bringing me back. Staff greet you with real warmth, and the villagers have a gentler pace and an easy kindness that feels like something you don't find often anymore. If you say hi, smile back, and let yourself slow down, it's a restorative kind of calm. I've been to this little sanctuary three times in three years, and somehow never reviewed it because I almost wanted to keep it to myself. The villas are stunning, with rich mahogany and cool travertine, and each opens to a huge ocean view that still feels personal. Waves barely reach the shore, and birds drift around in the breeze. It's a soft place to land.

The resort itself was great for the kids. There are two fun pools, plus kayaks, paddle boards, and bikes available for free. Staff were constantly sweeping or fixing cushions and umbrellas, and there are games to play at the onsite restaurant. Our rooms were clean and pleasant, and they let us check in early, which was a relief. One room was missing hand soap and another the remote, but they brought a replacement remote within a couple of hours, and we used shampoo in place of the soap. The main downside was the sound carrying between rooms. We were on the upper floor in a room for three, and within half an hour of arriving around 1pm with my two kids, security came by because the downstairs neighbor had complained. We had only set down suitcases, changed into swimsuits, then looked for the missing remote when it started raining. No yelling, stomping, loud music, or TV. I didn't have trouble with noise myself, but being upstairs, I'm probably less sensitive. Rooms for more than three people are on the lower level. The beach wasn't especially inviting, with about a foot of seaweed along the waterline.

Bring bug spray for skin and clothes. We got eaten alive by No-see-ums, and this is no fault of the resort. The place itself was fantastic, about a two-hour drive from Belize City, with well-kept grounds and great staff. There are two main restaurants serving good food, one onsite and the other, Embers, very close by. We enjoyed both pools, the beach, and an excursion to Thatch Caye. A walk into town is fun too, with little spots like Nice Cream for a treat.