MI Lodge Las Trancas Hotel & Spa

The location and scenery alone make this place worth visiting, even if you had to stay somewhere much more basic. Luckily, MI Lodge is one of the nicest places I've ever stayed, and I'd happily return. I've already recommended it to family and friends. The heated pool was a hit with the kids and the rest of us, and the mountain views were fantastic for my husband's photography. We also enjoyed the nearby trail to a "River of Lava," formed by a now-dormant volcano. The rock formations and peaks were spectacular. My husband, son, and seven-year-old grandson made the hike in two leisurely hours going up and one coming back. It was another highlight. The Ecoparque looked interesting too, though it wasn't open during our winter visit. The lodge is close to the ski slopes at Nevados de Chillan, where most visitors spent their days. Our group only skied for parts of two days, since we're not keen skiers and found plenty to do at the lodge and elsewhere nearby. It's open year-round, and hiking must be a main activity in summer. There were a few letdowns. The observatory and its 18-inch Dobsonian telescope were closed. The climbing wall our boy might have enjoyed was very short and in a dark, rather unappealing room. The nearby "fitness center" was just an exercise bike and a bench with some weights, and it was being used as a maintenance worker's bedroom. Most frustrating was the promised internet: it relied on one 3G cellular modem and a dlink router that seemed to handle only one Apple device at a time. We were told fiber optic service would be available any day, as we apparently had been for the past year. Ask ahead which facilities are open. I'd also recommend an all-wheel drive vehicle for the rocky, challenging roads, especially the last kilometer and a half. It was passable, but rough on cars, and by the time we left it was muddy and hard to drive on in small Toyotas. Don't take a passenger car you care about. A rental makes more sense. During a winter storm, police may require chains, so bring them and be ready to put them on. The staff were enthusiastic and helpful, and tried to find a way to help with whatever we needed. The food was great. The cheese souffle served one night as an appetizer deserves a special mention, as do the soups. The lunch crepes were all good, and a couple were great. We especially liked "La De La Bosque" and the Salmon. Breakfast was a substantial buffet with cereals, fresh fruit, cheese, ham, bread, excellent marmalades, and, on six of seven days, perfect soft-boiled eggs. The coffee was usually weaker than I like, but Chile is a country of instant coffee drinkers, so what can you expect? There were lots of kids, so it's ideal for families with young children. If you'd rather not be around kids, this isn't the spot for you. The other guests were pleasant and interesting. Spanish was the main language, but almost everyone could speak some English, so communication was no problem even though my husband and I only speak English.