La Capitainerie

The room was spotless, and we had access to the whole kitchen. Our twin room had a comically huge bathroom with a large shower and deep bathtub. The rooms have a shabby-chic feel, and you can tell a lot of care went into the refurbishment. It's in a great spot, about 15 minutes from the train station and steps from the castle. The staff, who come in for breakfast and cleaning, were really friendly. One thing that could help is putting numbers on the doors. Someone was in our room by mistake when we arrived, and other guests were mixed up about which rooms were theirs while we were there. I'd happily stay again if I return to Amboise.

It was a strange stay, and unfortunately I can't recommend the place. Our room was on the third floor, the fourth for Americans, and there's no elevator. The radiator didn't work, so we relied on the heated towel rail to make the room warm enough. The doors also have little padlocks instead of normal knobs or handles. We arrived to find the building locked and nobody there, with no check-in instructions. Calls and a message went unanswered, and even the booking company couldn't reach the owners. It was cold and raining, so we dragged our bags to a cafe to work out what to do. As we were asking for a refund, the hotel finally called with instructions for getting inside. Maybe they'd just had a bad day, these things happen, but it was a rough start.

The location is hard to beat: the Loire and a parking lot are out front, with the château rising behind the building. Restaurants in the center are five minutes away, and Le Clos Lucé is a ten-minute walk. Don't miss the Sunday market along the Loire. The neighborhood gets busy during the day, but at night it's quiet apart from the river rapids. This is a very old place with a lot of character. It was built around the same time as the château and served as the “Capitainerie,” where taxes were collected for river passage. There's even an underground passage to the château. The building is about 400 years old, and historic restrictions make further restoration prohibitively expensive, so it's restored as much as possible. Inside, there's a rustic, very French shabby-chic lounge, then an aged, narrow staircase up to a large kitchen and stylish dining area overlooking the Loire. The next floor has two large rooms with exposed beams, closed brick fireplaces, and ancient “tomettes” flooring. The thick walls keep the rooms cool, though the top floor under the roof may get warm. Watch your head: the old doors are only about 1.70 meters high, and age has warped the frames a little. Expect an Airbnb-style arrival, where you call a French number at the front door to get an entry code. Be ready for a one-of-a-kind historical stay.

The kitchen is wonderful, and there's a large dining room for breakfast if you order it. This is a 16th-century home, with beautifully renovated rooms and amazing architecture. There are lots of stairs, and it's less than 50 feet from the Chateau.