Palazzo Previtera

The gallery makes a lovely intimate setting for dinner, and the host was warm, knowledgeable, and made the evening feel special. We had a memorable four-course Sicilian–Japanese fusion meal. The bread was outstanding, the pasta was spot on, and both the vegetarian and meat dishes were impressive. You could taste the quality and creativity in each course. Though it’s connected to a hotel, this restaurant deserves to be a destination in its own right. It felt like Bib Gourmand level, refined and memorable, with very good value for the quality. A real hidden gem for anyone after a unique fine-dining dinner.

Best pillows in Sicily! Alfio and the staff were incredibly helpful and communicative. I emailed ahead about transport and recommendations, and they were more than accommodating. Our room was comfortable and charming, and they handled an unexpected room type change beautifully. The complimentary dinner that came with that change was delicious, though €20 feels steep for it. I understand that may be the price on booking.co, but I don’t think many people would find it appropriate. The associated Restaurant Previtera was a trip highlight. The enthusiastic young chef made a delicious, unusual four-course meal using local ingredients, and the attached art gallery turned into a distinctive dining room. I also appreciate the craft of moka pot coffee, but would have liked a more approachable option. We only had one night on Etna, and I wish I’d known how interesting Palazzo Previtera was so I could have arrived earlier. I’d choose Previtera again and spend time exploring the property when we return.

We found the cottage below the standard we expected from premium accommodation, and the museum and gallery features didn’t make up for it. The old kitchen from the 30's was especially odd, since you pass through it whenever you want to get around. Dinner was overrated too, in a slightly awkward room with only three tables where guests were encouraged to mingle. If you’re after somewhere eccentric, this might suit you. We’re two well-travelled lawyers used to good standards, and while it may fit someone with a similar budget, our preferences were clearly different.

The pool area was small, with only 6 sunbeds, but nicely put together. For much of the day, though, workers were nearby using loud power tools, shouting, and sometimes singing. Our planned poolside lounging day was a waste, and I wish we’d been told in advance so we could have stayed elsewhere. Alfio said a price reduction was “impossible.” Drinks by the pool were also hard to get, since I think you had to wait until 5pm or 6pm and then ask at reception. Guests often left towels on the sunbeds for hours while they were away, and staff left them there, so getting a place to lie down could be difficult. The room was nice, but the booking photos made it look as though it had a loft. That area was actually outside the room in a shared space. We weren’t the only ones confused, the guests opposite thought the same and even walked into our room once. Dinner was the worst food we had on our 2 week Sicily trip. There were no choices, just a tasting menu, and the chef seemed inexperienced. The horsemeat “carpaccio” came as raw chunks about 1cm thick. I tried one and could barely finish chewing it. When the chef asked about it after most of it was sent back, I asked why it wasn’t sliced wafer thin and said how chewy it was. He said it was meant to be chewy and had been marinated, but I think something went wrong because it shouldn’t have been that tough. We spoke politely, but it wasn’t carpaccio by any definition. The green pasta was incredibly bitter. I ate it, but it wasn’t enjoyable. The meal ended with a beef hanger steak, cooked well, though nobody asked how we wanted it. It felt out of place on a tasting menu, and the cheaper cut was tough and chewy. Things started nicely: after I emailed to say we’d arrive early, they kindly offered early check-in. At check-in, Alfio was all smiles, then asked if we were dining there that night. I said we didn’t have a booking. He changed his tone and insisted we did, saying they’d been preparing food all day and it would be a big problem if we didn’t come. I showed him my email asking about a reservation and their reply saying the restaurant was closed on Tuesdays. The thread ended with a vague offer to accommodate us either way, but never said a table was booked, so I’d made a reservation elsewhere. He read it and told me I was wrong. I was upset by how he spoke to me, but suggested we could try to move our other reservation to smooth things over. He didn’t thank or apologize. A few minutes later I got an email confirming a table, the first confirmation I’d received, so it was clearly their mistake. Alfio offered free breakfast on our last morning, but it arrived while we were packing and waiting for our taxi. Too little, too late. I got the impression he’d been forced to turn his family home into a hotel and resented it. He’s too argumentative to manage a hotel. UPDATE: I just read the reply, and a lot of it isn’t even true. The hotel won’t last if you keep refusing to accept any blame.