Casa in palazzo Graffeo Sven

There’s no elevator, and evenings can be a little noisy, with voices and shouts audible in the distance. Still, for a budget-friendly stay of several days, it works if you don’t expect too much, especially with the main sights close by. If you’re used to luxury hotels or expect top-level service, this probably isn’t for you. There’s air conditioning, spacious rooms, and WiFi. Bus stops are nearby, and the train station is about a 15-minute walk away. If all you need in Palermo is a place to sleep, it’s a practical option.

The rooftop terrace is unbeatable, and the apartment was spotless with everything we needed. Sven was always reachable and replied right away. It’s a lovely place for a city break, right in the heart of Palermo, within easy reach of bars, restaurants, markets, the train station, bus station, and airport bus. There’s some peace and quiet too, though the workshop across the street can be noisy. With the windows shut, you can’t hear it.

The rooftop terrace has character, but it’s completely abandoned, which is a shame. When we left, the owner didn’t even ask if things had gone okay. I chose not to argue because I felt embarrassed for him. My wife and I spent two nights in the “Eva” studio at Palazzo Graffeo, which is very old and has charming stairs, right in Palermo’s historic center and close to everything. The kitchen was clean but minimal and uninviting. The bathroom and furnishings were very dated, and maintenance was poor. Leaving personal taste aside, the box spring was extremely uncomfortable, the mattress had a hole in the middle, and when I took off the sheets I saw a yellow stain that was presumably urine. There’s also a small mezzanine with a small mattress on a pallet.

Charming rooms and a little terrace looking over the city center and the sea, all in an 18th-century building in the middle of Vucciria and Palermo. Stay here if you want to experience the real Palermo.