Centro Studi Nuovarmonia

The stay with Pino was the highlight of my two weeks touring Tuscany and Umbria by motorcycle. I’ll remember Aurora’s dinners made from the garden, evenings by the fire, walks with the dogs, long conversations where I learned a lot, and the stars overhead. In the morning, the valley lay under mist, with Volterra on its hill and the early sun coming up. Centro Studi Nuovarmonia is a special kind of place, simple, clean and hostel-like, with an eclectic shared room: a full drum kit in the middle, guitars nearby, art on the walls, and sculptures and collectibles on the shelves and tables. You can cook your own meals, and the donkeys get fed in the early evening around sundown. You'll need your own transport to stay here. This isn't a plush boutique Airbnb. For me, it was travel as a real human experience, meeting people and sharing time in a way that stays with you. Nino's personal story is fascinating, tied up with Italy's history, politics and culture from the 20th century to today. He knows a lot about Romans and Etruscans and what they did in the valley, along with all sorts of other things. He's lived life fully and has a deep belief in humanity. He laughs at the world and at himself, tells it straight, and has an infectious outlook. He can also play a Gibson Les Paul loud and distorted, in a way that brought Jimi Hendrix to mind. Pino's heart is pure gold, even if he half-heartedly tries to seem otherwise. He uses very colorful language and jokes at your expense, so if that bothers you or you need to be pampered, this probably isn't the place for you. If you're someone who likes to help out in the garden or with fixing things, I imagine he'd welcome a kindred spirit. If you get the chance to stay here, it feels like a privilege.