Locanda San Fantino

A lovely surprise was discovering Sebastiano and the estate's own biodynamic wine. We tried plenty and really liked it, and Gattina, the gorgeous house cat, deserves a mention too. San Fantino sits away from the tourist trail, near little villages and towns like Sapri, as well as the National Park and surrounding mountains. Sebastiano pointed us toward the best nearby beaches, with their crystal-clear water. We hadn't visited this part of Italy before and loved exploring it. It's a rustic, self-sufficient Bnb on its own farm, and the organic food is part of the experience. Sebastiano runs the place, cooks for guests, and looks after them. What an amazing stay!

Don't trust the pictures, they don't show what the place was like in 2018. The pool was bright green, flies were on the food, and there was no hot water in the crusty shower. A dirty curtain separated the bathroom from the bedroom. The place felt dirty and shabby, and was grossly overpriced. See recent TripAdvisor reviews, especially the Italian ones, which are the most recent.

We came without a car and getting to San Fantino was easy enough. A regional train from Naples costs about 12 euros and takes about two hours. Get off at Policastro station, and Sebastiano can arrange a taxi to his home for about 10 euros. The surroundings are extraordinary. The town is about a 10 minute drive uphill from the ocean, and San Fantino has incredible sea views. I've never seen a more stunning sunset. Nearby, my fiancé and I walked an old road past vineyards and shepherds with their sheep, then hiked down to the ocean. The landscape reminded us of Ireland and Hawaii together, and I haven't seen anything quite like it. San Fantino is near the Cilento National Pake, among the most ecologically diverse land in Europe. There are fruit trees everywhere, mandarin, lemon, apricot, pear, apple, olive, almond, plum, and more. The land is fertile and a little wild, with wild flowers and edible plants springing up all over. If you're interested in plants, gardening, cultivating land, foraging edible and medicinal plants, sustainability, or nearly zero waste, there's a lot to learn here. Sebastiano knows about local wild edibles and flowers, growing things, artisanal winemaking, curing meat, and preserves. He also cooks dinner for 25 dollars a person. Ours was delicious, rustic home cooking, with about 90 percent of the ingredients from the land where you'll stay. A typical meal might be four courses. We had local anchovies cured with orange and house made olive oil, risotto with foraged mushrooms, wild boar braised with foraged red juniper berries, wild chicory with house made vinegar, and the best pasta Vongole with tiny clams from the nearby ocean. San Fantino is near the bottom of the village of San Giovanni a Piro, one of the most charming places I've visited. Get up early and you may see trucks delivering freshly made mozzarella do buffalo and fior de latte to a few local stores each morning. The cheese isn't refrigerated, it's kept on the countertop, so you can eat the freshest mozzarella every day. This place isn't for everyone, and that's fine. If you want a predictable vacation that simply happens around you, it may not suit you. Come with curiosity and openness, though, and be ready to take an active part in the experience, and it can be rich and beautiful. You're sharing the place with small dogs, cats, birds, plants, playful children, and a bit of wildness. We spent just two nights here during our three-week trip to Italy, but it was the highlight. For an adventurous stay off the beaten track in rural Southern Italy, I absolutely recommend it. We loved our time at San Fantino.

We left with a big box of wine, gin, and other things Sebastiano makes, plus memories we'll keep for a long time. His own vegetables, wine, vinegar, and other products were all delicious, and he cooked for us every night. Each dinner amazed us. We found this Bnb more or less by chance while looking for somewhere special and off the beaten track for our honeymoon last summer. We were so pleasantly surprised by the charm of the place and by Sebastiano, its charismatic, eccentric owner. It's an old farm with pets, so don't expect a spotless, shiny hotel experience. But the authentic atmosphere, personal service, and beautiful setting made it a sublime getaway for us and our 1 year old baby, far from the tourist crowds. Visit Scario and take a boat trip through the magnificent bay. And don't worry too much about the entry road, anyone who can drive can manage it, even in a cheap rental.