Palazzo Valmarana Braga

The palazzo was damaged during the war, though its beautiful ceiling is still visible on the ground floor, as is the insurance company’s waiting hall upstairs. There’s a gift shop, and you can rent a bicycle for a Palladio tour.

I was drawn to the Palazzo because Palladio had worked on it, and I thought staying there would be interesting. The location is hard to beat, and the apartments actually in the Palazzo may be great. But Appartamento Francesca is somewhere else: it’s the attic of a house two doors away, reached over the rooftops. The website’s “Book” section lists it, but the details don’t make that clear. I was really disappointed when I found out. The room itself was fine, but the bathroom was awful, tiny, with two grimy shower screens that wouldn’t close properly and the controls outside them. I’d also booked partly for the rooftop view, but we didn’t use the terrace because the corrugated plastic awning made it uninviting. I’d strongly advise against booking Appartamento Francesca.

There’s a table in the courtyard where we sat out for drinks, and even had a buffet. The apartments are huge and set in a genuine palazzo, with very traditional Italian furniture and a small lift. One room has ceiling frescos, and the friendly owner lets guests see it.

Bars, boutiques, and museums are all close by in beautiful Vicenza. We spent seven days here and really enjoyed it. The welcome was warm, and the Palazzo has traditional, charming features that suit its central location.