Ryokan Igaya

Dinner was served in our room, which you don’t often get these days, and we could take our time with it. The local ingredients were delicious throughout, especially the mirin-dried fish at breakfast. The futon was soft and fluffy, and we slept well. My husband and I found the inn homey and full of character. The hot spring is small, but the water felt excellent, and we could relax there. I was surprised to hear the inn dates back to the Meiji era, though the building’s appearance and the service made it easy to see why it has lasted. We had a lovely stay and would come back when we’re in Amakusa again.

The food was all delicious. We had crab instead of abalone, and it was rich and satisfying alongside the spiny lobster main course. Breakfast’s squid rice bowl was tasty too. The guest room was very cramped. Once the futon was laid out, getting to the toilet meant stepping on it. The bathroom entrance curtain was hung oddly, so opening the door left the changing area completely exposed. At night, I could hear the person in the next room snoring.

The worst place I’ve stayed in my 55 years. The owner didn’t say a word of apology or even bow. The private bath in my room had no hot water, despite this being a hot spring inn. When I called the front desk, they told me to use the public bath without checking. I’ve never been treated this way after paying a decent price. Other things went wrong from the start. The entrance’s automatic door was broken, and although there was a sign telling guests to open it manually, there was no handle, so I had to pry it with my fingernails. A toothbrush left by the previous guest was still in my room. Some amenities in the public bath were empty, and mineral deposits covered the tub’s edge, making it feel dangerously rough. I couldn’t lean my back against it. I asked for dinner in my room at 6 PM. I finished eating in about an hour, but they didn’t clear the dishes until 8:30, so I couldn’t relax. They came to lay out the futon after that. Its pillow was 20 centimeters high and stuffed so tightly with beads that it was painfully hard. My neck hurt from the strain.

The building is old, but it felt comfortable to walk barefoot on the floors, and tabi socks were provided instead of slippers. It had the relaxed feeling of being at grandma’s house. We chose this inn for our visit to Sakitsu Village, and the repurposed Boys' Day banner used as a noren curtain was a lovely seasonal welcome. Our Amakusa Daio meal plan was delicious, from the chewy Amakusa Daio chicken and plump sashimi to the Rosario pork shabu-shabu. The hot spring is small, but the water left our skin smooth, and being able to use it 24 hours a day was great. There’s a nearby foot bath too, nice to stop at while strolling in geta sandals. I’d love to return for the food and baths.