Iioka Onsen Gloria Kujukurihama

For 5,000 yen, having a hot spring included felt reasonable, even with a leak in the seventh-floor public area. The bath shuts at 10pm, and I wish it stayed open until morning. Maybe it’s related to work-style reforms, but staff aren’t around until 8am. The walls are thin enough that the next room’s TV comes through clearly. Judging by the paint marks, the building seems to have once been a health spa.

The dark water is what keeps coming back to mind. It was coffee-black, so I couldn’t see my body underwater, and it felt silky at a comfortable temperature. I stayed warm for a while afterward. The two baths each had their own kind of hot spring, and despite the run-down facilities, the water itself was wonderful. I’d love to return. I’d called ahead and the cheerful, very polite woman at reception told me day visitors could bathe until 8pm, with 700 yen admission, 200 yen for a bath towel, and 100 yen for a face towel. I only came for the baths, so I can’t say anything about staying overnight. The old building has a strong Showa-era feel. I initially couldn’t find the entrance, and inside it was dim and almost surreal, which I actually enjoy. The baths are upstairs on the second floor. The changing room lockers were tiny, and their keys looked easy to break. One of the two hair dryers seemed to have a damaged plug, and both had weak airflow. In the bath area, one tub looked oddly empty, and there was a strangely enclosed shower section. Even though the place is small, there were several spots that made me wonder what I was looking at. There were about four washing stations, but one didn’t get properly hot, so I moved. I hesitated at a door beside the indoor bath, then peeked through and found the open-air bath. Afterward I sat by the sofas and vending machines for a bit, and ended up really taken with the whole unusual atmosphere.

The evening view from my corner room was great, and the coffee-colored bathwater really felt like a proper hot spring. It was right at 40 degrees, which seemed ideal. I booked because Iioka Fishing Port is directly in front, so the location worked for fishing. The room is fine if all you need is a place to sleep. There were shared nylon towels in the bathroom, though I didn’t see anyone using them. There’s no bidet toilet, and for some reason there was a kitchen, lol.

The sunset over the sea from our six-tatami room was beautiful, and we had the black hot spring water to ourselves since it wasn’t very busy. The room was for two. We came for the baths, the price, and the view. With a 2,000-yen-per-person lodging subsidy, our total for two was 6,000 yen, though it seems the offer isn’t available on weekdays. The bath closes at 10pm, and I’d have liked it to stay open until midnight or be available in the morning, though maybe that’s asking a bit much. The toilet doesn’t even have a heated seat, so be ready for a cold one in winter. There were teacups, but one cup seemed to be an original One Cup cup and the other was just an ordinary cup. Tissues cost extra. I’ve listed a lot of little things, but this stay was within my expectations.