Nogamihonkan Ryokan

I was sad to check out. This was the best stay of my three-week Japan trip, and my family of five slept wonderfully in the Family room. I’d worried about sleeping on futons, but they were comfortable, and having the onsen before bed probably helped too. The bathroom was SUPER spacious by Japan hotel standards, with double vanities. If you’re not Japanese and want to try an Onsen Ryokan without worrying too much about etiquette, this place is a good fit. They explain the Japanese way clearly in English, rather than letting guests do whatever they like. English-speaking staff can answer questions, and the breakfast team explains what to do with the Japanese breakfast so you don’t feel like an idiot or uncultured. The breakfast was really nice too, if you like Japanese food. They serve Kabosu juice, a citrus fruit local to the prefecture, and it was incredibly refreshing. You pay a one-off JPY300, at the time of my stay, for unlimited use of the washing machine and dryer. Super affordable and convenient. Nogami has two public onsens that rotate between men and women, so you can experience both. If you’d rather not do the Japanese bathing ritual, there are three private onsens at a reasonable hourly rate. I tried all but one, and they were very clean and a good temperature. The lounge is cozy, with free hot and cold tea and coffee available all the time.

The onsen setup was easy to understand thanks to Suhit, who checked me in and explained the ryokan layout, the times for the two male baths included with the stay, and the private baths you can pay to book. He spoke excellent English and Japanese, and also shared his favorite local onsens, which was a big help since visiting them was the main reason I came to Beppu. The bath area had plenty of amenities, free water and tea, and ice cream. For Takegawara Onsen, just a two-minute walk away, you can borrow a basket and towel from beside the check-in counter. Don't skip the traditional ryokan breakfast. It was high quality, varied, and really nourishing.

Four visits so far, and the staff remembered me right away. I'm sure I'll be back for a fifth visit, and plenty more after that. Five out of five.

The futons were thick and comfortable, and everything was clean and looked after, even though the building and rooms feel a little old. Staff were lovely, spoke English well, and had good suggestions. We stayed in a six-person shared room with a toilet but no private shower, so we used the shared bath. It's a traditional communal setup where everyone sits side by side to shower. The place is a reasonably priced Japanese-style inn with an onsen, about a 15-minute walk from Beppu Station. Check-in begins at 4 PM.