Onsenkaku

The location is really convenient and pleasant, very close to the Seven Hells of Beppu. The staff were kind and helpful, and it was great to be able to book and use both the indoor and outdoor private onsens.

The room had the whole traditional setup, with tatami, low tables, and even a "go" game board. You can choose between male and female onsens or two family baths with lockable doors, which are unisex. That was especially handy because my room had no bath or shower, so I had to use the shower in the onsen facilities. I thought the inn was very nice if you're after a traditional stay. We skipped dinner. It looked good, but cost 4000 yen per person. Two things brought it down to three stars for me. First, I accidentally dropped the traditional slippers onto the stone floor by the entrance. One of the hosts saw it and made a massive deal of it, even though it was clearly a mistake. I understand this matters in Japanese culture, but if it's that important, take 30 seconds to sanitize the slippers. Second, at checkout the host handed me a notice in Japanese about Beppu's bathing tax. My Agoda booking already included $16 CAD worth of bathing tax. Maybe the tax had gone up, maybe not, but it left a sour taste. If the slipper rules are enforced so strictly, the online fee information should be kept just as strictly up to date. Hidden costs at checkout don't feel good.

The facilities look a little dated, but I think that's part of a ryokan's charm. The hot spring water was great, and there were Korean explanations in the room. You can also leave your luggage there before check-in. I'm writing this because there aren't many reviews from Koreans. The Kaiseki was delicious and very filling. I don't speak Japanese well, but I managed to communicate with Papago. The owner, the grandfather, and the staff were all kind.

It felt like being back at my grandmother's house, and I found myself reluctant to go out. You can reserve the bath for private use, and there is so much food: sashimi, tempura, steamed dishes, and Western food, enough for two or three people and almost too much to choose from. You could buy eggs nearby and steam them in the garden, but with all the food, you'll struggle to eat them too. Ask the landlady for alcohol, coffee, pudding, or something similar and she'll bring you something exceptionally delicious. This guesthouse is full of travel charm.