Hotel Yamanami

After a long journey, I slept really well. The bed and pillows were comfortable, and the bright, clean room was thoughtfully decorated. I could see the mountains through the bathroom window while brushing my teeth. The ladies’ onsen has two indoor pools, including a red wine bath and a jacuzzi, plus an outdoor bath looking over greenery. The meals, made with simple local ingredients, were delicious, and the service was welcoming. Isawaonsen Station is about a 2-3 minute walk away, with Aeon next door. I booked with no real expectations and was blown away. I hope I can visit again.

I paid 1320 yen for an onsen-only visit, after the train station visitor centre recommended this place. They have a useful list of local onsens with prices. It was quiet when we went on Sunday after lunch, which made it a nice place to figure things out for our first onsen experience. There are two indoor baths, one with a distinctive red wine bath, and an outdoor one in a pleasant garden. It’s a very short walk from the station. A few useful things to know: leave your shoes on the storage shelves before walking on the tatami mats, the baths are separate for men and women, and tattoos and bathing suits aren’t allowed. I’d recommend it to other first-timers.

I messed up by putting my small towel in what looked like a basket in the changing room. Turns out you’re allowed to keep it, and luckily it was still there when I went back. My wife and I both preferred the bath with the teepee-looking structure outside. They switch the men’s and women’s baths around every so often. This was our second visit. The first time we had a shared rest and party room, but with a bigger group this time, we got a larger private one. Snacks were allowed, but drinks weren’t. We had a great kaiseki lunch. I didn’t pay, so I don’t know the price, though I imagine it isn’t cheap. I think some of the party rooms have karaoke.

The building is fancy, and there are free massage chairs. The onsen-only price was 1200 Yen, a bit steep, but I thought it was okay overall. Just three small baths, one with a grape scent.