HAPPOYA

The nights were so quiet that I slept great, and the traditional futon was cozy. I heard a little road noise now and then, but nothing from the restaurant and it didn't bother me. The staff were patient and kind while I worked through my limited Japanese, and check-in felt lovely. They also kept my bag while I went sightseeing. I had the larger suite, with a full garden view and a lantern-lit alcove just outside the bath. The renovated samurai home is beautifully cared for, from the clean, new furnishings to the artful tatami seams. It was a special stay, and I'd happily return, especially with a group since the two-bedroom space is so rare and roomy.

The gyoza were the best I've ever had. The restaurant next door was full, but we could eat in our room. That said, hotels at this price often bring food to the room, so that may be something to consider. My main problem was how cold the room stayed. It was spacious and clean, but even with all the heating on, it was still really cold, and I ended up catching a cold. The amenities felt similarly disappointing, including toothbrushes that cost around 15 yen apiece. For about 50,000 yen a night, the quality and service were far below what I expected, and I regretted not choosing a local business hotel.

The inn itself was very clean, and staying there felt like an unusual experience. The gyoza were delicious too. Cars passing by made a rumbling sound that carried through the building. That seemed to come from the location rather than the inn, and while it was noticeable, it didn't bother me at night.