Hakone Ashinoko Bikeikan

For around €200 a night, this felt like poor value. The place is traditional, clean, and has lovely views of Mount Fuji, so the setting is peaceful. But it’s short on basics. There’s no check-in service or meals, and despite the big table in the room, there were no plates, cutlery, or way to prepare or serve food. If you’re arriving by public transport, food choices are very limited. During our visit only one village restaurant was open, and there were no convenience stores nearby. The scenery and cleanliness earned it 3/5 for me, but I can’t really recommend it at that price.

We had a great stay. The traditional wooden houses and tatami and futon setup were lovely inside, and the location and view were nice. There are several buildings, split across three or four houses. Each bath serves a maximum of four houses, so the public bath never felt crowded. There’s no shower or bathroom in the house, so washing means using that bath. The road up was a surprise. At night it’s narrow and climbs, and I kept wondering if I was on the right way. The only thing I didn’t like was a smell in the house. I couldn’t tell whether someone had smoked inside or if it was just the wood and traditional furnishings.

The view of Mt. Fuji and the lake was wonderful, and my whole family loved the room and hot spring. The staff were kind too. When my children suddenly started vomiting badly during our stay, they made the comforter and mattress dirty. We called the emergency number in the morning, and the woman who answered first asked about the kids and whether we needed help. She told me not to worry about the room and to focus on them. That kindness meant a lot. We’re sorry for the trouble, and grateful again for her help.

The place is well maintained and the view of Mt Fuji is incredible. One thing to plan for: without a car, you’ll have to carry your luggage from the nearest bus stop. Depending on where you get off and how slowly you walk, it can take up to 20 minutes.